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Topics - Deozaan [ switch to compact view ]

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Hi all,

I have a few Raspberry Pis functioning as media servers or whatnot, including running other things (such as self-hosted version control) that require an external internet connection or allow other people connect to my devices remotely. But the problem is that my modem frequently stops communicating with the outside world and the only fix seems to be to reboot it. Otherwise it will happily sit there for hours without an internet connection and never self-recover.

If I'm home when it happens, it's annoying to have the frequent interruptions to streaming Netflix or YouTube or whatever, but it's not a huge ordeal to fix it. I just walk over and pull the power cord and plug it back in. But when I'm not home, which is ostensibly when I really need my internet to be reliable for accessing my files/devices, I obviously can't remotely reboot the modem. So hours go by without an internet connection at home because no one is around to reboot the modem.

What would be nice would be to have a "smart" power switch that could detect the lack of an internet connection, cut and restore power to an external device (the modem) and then wait a few minutes for the modem to finish rebooting before going back into internet connection detection mode and being ready to do it all again if/when necessary.

If something like this already exists and is fairly inexpensive, I'd love to hear about it. Otherwise, I'm thinking it must be possible somehow as a kind of DIY Raspberry Pi project. And as mentioned, I already have a few Raspberry Pis sitting around that I could use if needed.

Does anyone have any tips or suggestions--or even better: links to hardware and/or instructions--on how to get the desired result of rebooting my modem any time it loses its connection to the internet, so I don't have to babysit it all the time or be afraid of leaving my house for extended periods of time?


Living Room / Share Your 2020 Top Ten List(s)!
« on: January 24, 2021, 10:14 PM »
A little over a year ago mouser started a thread about sharing our top ten lists of something from the year that just wrapped up, which was 2019. So I thought I'd try to continue the tradition by asking people to share their top ten list(s) of things from 2020.

Although, it looks like mouser already beat me to the punch by sharing some videos of his top ten board games of various categories. Though those aren't necessarily specifically about 2020.

Brevity is not my strong point, as evidenced by my post in last year's top ten thread. So even though I'm still working on writing up my list, I thought I'd extend the invitation to others to share their lists in the meantime.

Coding Snacks / [Solved] Adjust Subtitle (SRT) Timestamps
« on: December 20, 2020, 02:26 AM »
Hi all,

I've got a movie that would be pretty tame (PG in the USA) were it not for the fact that inexplicably it has about 30 seconds of nudity in a scene that has absolutely no bearing on any part of the film. Okay, I said the reason was inexplicable, but it's a French film, so I guess it should go without saying. Anyway, in an effort to make it more family friendly, I've ripped the DVD and cut out the scene with nudity. But, seeing as it's a French film, and I don't speak French, now all the timings for the subtitles are off by a significant enough amount that it's hard to follow.

Actually, editing the file made me lose the subtitles, but I downloaded new ones (in SRT format).

The idea of manually adjusting the time for each line of text that appears is just far too daunting a task for me to even begin. Surely there must be some way to do this automatically? Or perhaps someone who is knowledgeable with Regular Expressions can whip something up for me that will find all timestamps, do a calculation on them, and then replace them with the new values?

Here are my requirements:

  • Allow me to enter the "start time" or the time after which all future timestamps should be modified. Or in other words, don't modify the timestamps for anything before this time.
  • Allow me to enter an adjustment amount by which to modify the timestamps. The timestamps are down to the millisecond precision level, FYI.
  • Allow me to press "Go" and have it do its work.
  • Bonus points if it erases any subtitles that may exist in the resulting "limbo zone" (the time between the "start time" and the "start time + adjustment amount" time) and double bonus points if it also renumbers any following subtitles to compensate for deleted ones.
  • Either present me with the changed text in a textarea I can copy to my clipboard or allow me to output the text to a file of my choosing (so I can choose to keep the original file if I want). Or, essentially, don't destroy any data without my explicit consent.

I actually don't need all of that. If it just let me enter the amount to shift every timestamp by, with precision down to one second, I would happily work with that. I'd be able to run it on the file and then copy and paste everything after the "start time" from the new times over the original times, and manually edit out the relatively few "limbo zone" subtitles.

Thanks in advance! :Thmbsup:

As part of their Winter Sale, GOG have sent out a newsletter with a little puzzle: Spot the 7 differences between the images to get discounts on games.

Play for yourself with the link above, or save yourself time by clicking the spoiler below.

I spotted the differences, here are the discounts, which all expire Dec 23, 2020, 6:59 AM (not sure which time zone):

GOG Presents.png
90% Off:
Syberia 2
Syberia 3
85% Off:
Banner Saga
Cat Quest
80% Off:
Overlord 2
Jazz Jackrabbit Collection
The Incredible Machine Mega Pack
75% Off:
Slime Rancher
This War of Mine
Summer & Winter: Olympic Challenge
55% Off:
Costume Quest
Icewind Dale Enhanced Edition
Space Pirates and Zombies (SPAZ)
FAR: Lone Sails
35% Off:
Heart of the Woods
30% Off:
Cthulhu Saves Christmas

Hi all,

I've gathered a bit of a sound library which has grown so large over the years that it makes it hard to know what I have, and where. I'd like some software that can help me quickly browse and preview the sound files. Bonus points if it can help me organize (and tag?) the files as well.

When I say "sound library" I don't mean music for personal enjoyment. I mean sound effects, jingles, voice tracks, or audio tracks for video games (or just videos, I suppose).

Surely people who do video editing for a living have some software that helps manage sound libraries. Any suggestions out there for what I can use?

Compatibility with Windows is needed. Preferably free/open source, but I'm open to affordable paid options if you have experience with them and feel they're worth it. This is mostly for hobby stuff, so expensive professional software is probably not feasible for my use case.

Thanks in advance.

It seems Apple is surreptitiously undermining their users' privacy in a hidden "rules for thee but not for me" whitelist of their own apps on macOS Big Sur.

The new macOS release, Big Sur, has made headlines due to Apple’s decision to place 56 of its own apps, including FaceTime, Apple Maps, and Apple Music Library, on an undocumented, unannounced “exclusion list.” This means these apps can bypass firewalls and, potentially, VPNs that function on a per-app basis without the users’ knowledge or consent, undermining macOS devices’ security and privacy.

Apple Big Sur Tweet.png


Living Room / Downloading Blender Open Movie "Sintel (2010)" in 4K
« on: October 24, 2020, 09:27 PM »
Hi all,

I'm trying to download the Open Movie made/funded by the Blender Foundation called Sintel from here:

I'm trying to get the 4K (mkv) version, which is about 4.2GB. At first it downloads really fast, telling me it will complete in about 20 minutes. But after I've gotten about 250MB into it, it then seems to throttle my download speed to about 64 kbps and says it will take 20 hours to complete. Is anyone else here able to download it at a speedy rate?

Or perhaps someone else is better able to search the internets than I have been to find a working torrent I can use to relieve of the burden of having to serve the file to me?

General Software Discussion / How to make MakeMKV better?
« on: October 13, 2020, 05:56 PM »
In years past I've casually ripped some of my DVDs here and there using HandBrake. Recently I've started ripping the rest of my DVD collection in earnest, using MakeMKV. I noticed that the resulting files produced by MakeMKV don't show thumbnails from the videos like the files produced by HandBrake do. This led me to further investigate the differences between the files produced by these two programs, and here's what I found:

MakeMKV encodes the videos in MPEG2 format, and the audio in AC3 format.
HandBrake encodes the videos in MPEG4/ISO/AVC (x264) format, and the audio in AAC format.

Also, in an example movie that is 90 minutes long, the file made by MakeMKV is 3.24GB in filesize. In contrast, the file made by Handbrake is only 854 MB in size. Playing the two videos side-by-side I don't see any difference in video quality (remember that this is DVD-quality video, so ~480p at best).

If the audio and video quality of each file are going to be indistinguishable from each other, then this leads me to believe that the files output by HandBrake are the superior choice, being a fraction of the filesize. And it kind of makes me regret using MakeMKV to rip so many of my DVDs in recent times due to all the time and effort I'll have to spend re-ripping them with HandBrake if I can't figure out a way to configure MakeMKV to produce better output.

While MakeMKV is very convenient in nearly automatically and easily ripping the different titles, there doesn't appear to be much in the way of configuring the output. Or am I missing something? Does anyone here know how to change MakeMKV to use more modern codecs? Or should I just go back to using HandBrake for my DVD ripping needs?

DC Gamer Club / Ludum Dare 47: October 2nd-5th, 2020
« on: October 01, 2020, 10:28 PM »
Ludum Dare 47 is this weekend! I forgot all about it until last week when the Theme Slaughter had already begun. Yikes!

It's been a mere six months since I last participated in LD46 this past April, but world events which have happened in the meantime make it feel like so much longer than that. Nevertheless, I'm gearing up once again to participate as part of a team. It'll just be two programmers and no artist this time, so don't expect it to look very pretty. :D

Right now the final round of theme voting is going on.

I'll try to remember to post what the theme to this thread when it is announced, but it's likely you won't hear much from me during the 72-hour jam.

Feel free to discuss any aspect of LD47 in this thread, including any games you might try out once the event has completed.

EDIT: My team made Chrono Crash for LD47.

See previous DonationCoder posts about Ludum Dare:

Ludum Dare 46 - (My team made Defendeer for LD46)
Ludum Dare 45 Reviews - A thread about LD45 games
Ludum Dare 41 - (My team made It's Not Lupus! for LD41)
Ludum Dare 2017 Thread - A thread about games from LD37 and LD38
Ludum Dare 33 - A thread about LD33 games
Ludum Dare 32 - (I made Time Bomb during LD32)
Ludum Dare 31 - (I made Worm Wars during LD31)
Ludum Dare 30 - (I made Planetary Devourers during LD30)
Ludum Dare 29 - (I made It Came From... Beneath!! during LD29)
Ludum Dare [29] topic for other games - A thread about LD29 games
Ludum Dare 23 - (I made Be Tiny, World! during LD23, and continued to work on it and improve it for years afterward!)
Ludum Dare - Game Programming Challenges

I just discovered Ventoy, which is free, open source (GPL 3.0) software you install on a USB drive to make it bootable. What makes it special is that it also acts like a normal USB storage drive, and you can just copy any multitude of ISOs onto it. When you boot it up it shows a menu where you can choose which ISO to finish booting into. It's like a bootloader for ISOs.

In other words, you can place your bootable Linux ISOs, Windows installation ISOs, etc., all on a single USB drive (assuming it has space for all of them) with no need to reformat or reflash the drive each time you want to change or update ISOs!

Here's a video showing it off:

Main website:
Github repo:

Non-Windows Software / Random Android apps getting installed
« on: August 17, 2020, 01:50 PM »
Hi folks,

I recently got a hand-me-down Android device which I performed a factory reset on and then set it up how I like it.

But I've been noticing every once in a while that there are new apps installed that I never installed. Sometimes they're games, sometimes they are non-game apps. Usually they are things I've never heard of, but I've seen a few popular apps such as TikTok. In any case, they're always crap I'd never install.

I don't know if this is a "feature" like how Windows 10 will put new things in the Start menu every so often, or the perhaps more likely scenario that this device has some kind of rootkit malware on it that allows it to install apps without my permission and can survive a factory reset.

The previous owner of the device was not very tech savvy and it wouldn't surprise me if she had installed some malicious app disguised as a game from the Google Play Store which set this behavior in motion.

But I also haven't had a new Android device since 2013 so I'm not sure if this is intended device vendor behavior.

The device is a Motorola Moto Z2.

Any useful suggestions or solutions on how to stop this behavior would be appreciated.

Add another corpse to the Google Graveyard.

Google is killing Google Play Music in order to promote YouTube Music.

The change appears to be a downgrade in every way, so I'm taking it as the final kick in the rear I needed to move away from yet another Google service.

Living Room / Cyph - A potential Keybase alternative
« on: July 22, 2020, 10:49 PM »
In response to the news that Keybase was acquired by Zoom, I got an unsolicited email from a Keybase competitor called Cyph which I'd never heard of before. It seems they're looking through public PGP keys on Keybase and sending emails to the associated email address letting people know that they're somewhat of an alternative to Keybase.

The unsolicited nature of the communication is a little off-putting, but they say they haven't added me to any mailing list and will not contact me again if I ignore their email. But I figured I'd at least check out their blog post they linked to in the email and see what they were all about.

Here's a quote of and link to the blog post, which seems to contain most of the same information in the email I received, plus a little more:

One of our major competitors, Keybase, was acquired by Zoom last month.

Many Keybase users are now looking for alternatives as a result, primarily due to a lack of trust in the new ownership to maintain high privacy standards, as well as speculation that the service is now doomed to ultimately be shut down. However, no single solution has so far stood out from the crowd; instead, users are faced with the prospect of setting up a hodgepodge of independent solutions.

Keybase is great, but a full alternative is clearly needed. That’s why we’ve spent the past month building new features to make Cyph more of a direct replacement.

Cyph’s features and general architecture are similar in many ways to Keybase, plus/minus a few features:

  • On the plus side, our features include voice/video calling (with group support), Bitcoin, and social networking (like Twitter, but all posts are signed + optionally encrypted for a subset of your contacts).
  • On the minus side, Keybase offers some awesome niche features (like encrypted git repos) that we currently do not.
  • And now, with our latest release, we’ve built out a set of PGP key management and utility features to make Cyph more immediately useful for users coming from Keybase.

Additionally, the architecture of Cyph yields some significant broader advantages:

  • Full web support
    • Whereas Keybase splits up its features between the web UI, the CLI, GPG, and the native apps, thanks to WebSign Cyph is able to provide a consistent experience across all platforms. The full functionality is available regardless of whether you use or the desktop and mobile apps, with no need to worry about degraded security on the web.
  • Automatic strong public key authentication for all users
    • No need to verify keys or usernames out of band, meet up in person to compare fingerprints or “Safety Numbers”, etc.
  • Quantum-resistant cryptography
    • Post-quantum encryption, key exchange, and signing algorithms are used throughout the application (in combination with classical crypto such as elliptic curves). Whereas others are still planning long-term migrations to post-quantum crypto, Cyph was built with it in mind from the start, meaning that your private data is theoretically protected from future QC attacks today.

We encourage you to submit a response to our poll to vote on the missing features you’d like us to add. And if you’re a Keybase user, just include your username and email address to skip the line and get a free invite to the Cyph beta!

I also noticed that they're offering a "special offer for Keybase users: $100 Lifetime Platinum upgrade! (Usually $48/mo.) Adds 1 TB storage, BTC wallet, and more."

I'm not necessarily recommending Cyph since I have no real experience with them, but I it's worth looking into and I will be creating an account to see for myself how it works.

I'd like to make a program with a UI. The content of the UI will not be static, but will change based on input from the user. What I mean by that is that the number of things shown can increase or decrease based on what the user does. For example, a to-do list might only show a few items, or it may show many items.

I'm thinking that since I program in C# I should use WPF for the UI. If anyone here is experienced with making GUI applications in C# and can tell me why I shouldn't go with WPF, I'd be glad to hear your reasons why and what alternative I should use.

Otherwise, I'm looking for recommendations on good resources for learning how to use WPF to make GUI applications. Free is preferred. And I think I'd prefer the information in written/image format (e.g., a book or website) rather than video format. But I'm open to hearing any useful suggestions or recommendations of learning materials people here have found useful.

Thanks in advance!

I've noticed lately that Brave (Chrome) is telling me the site is "Not Secure" when I'm viewing any posts/threads on the site.

DonationCoder - Not Secure.png

It seems that maybe some content is being loaded without HTTPS on thread pages?

EDIT: I'm mentioning this more in response to mouser's recent-ish attempts to force HTTPS site-wide than an actual concern about the "security" of my connection/data on the site.

So, I'm doing my thing, crunching away at Ludum Dare, and I notice my PBOL says this:

PBOL LD46 Weirdly Precise.png

2 days 189 minutes? Not 2 days and 3 hours? Okaayyy then... :tellme:

I give it some serious side-eye but I'm busy working on the game jam, so I snap a screenshot and let it slide for the time being. A while later, I notice it's about 20 minutes away from being a full 24 hours since LD46 began (meaning I should have about 2 days 20 minutes remaining), but now it looks like this:

PBOL LD46 Not Precise.png

Uh... what? :huh:

First of all, why is it telling me I have 189 minutes remaining and not showing hours? Second of all, why, when I'm finally at a point where showing me minutes remaining makes sense, does it totally omit the minutes and just round to 2 days? :-\

PBOL is weird.

But I still like it. :D

DC Gamer Club / Ludum Dare 46: April 17th-20th, 2020
« on: April 02, 2020, 04:18 AM »
Ludum Dare 46 is coming up in just two weeks.

It has been two years since I last participated in a Ludum Dare event (LD41 in April 2018), and I'm gearing up to do it once again as a team effort.

Right now you can submit theme suggestions, after which the Theme Slaughter will begin. I'll try to remember to post more details to this thread as we get closer to the start (and end) of the event, but it's likely you won't hear much from me during the 72-hour jam.

Feel free to discuss any aspect of LD46 in this thread, including any games you might try out once the event has completed.

EDIT: My team made Defendeer for LD46.

See previous DC posts about Ludum Dare:

Ludum Dare 45 Reviews - A thread about LD45 games
Ludum Dare 41 - (My team made It's Not Lupus! for LD41)
Ludum Dare 2017 Thread - A thread about games from LD37 and LD38
Ludum Dare 33 - A thread about LD33 games
Ludum Dare 32 - (I made Time Bomb during LD32)
Ludum Dare 31 - (I made Worm Wars during LD31)
Ludum Dare 30 - (I made Planetary Devourers during LD30)
Ludum Dare 29 - (I made It Came From... Beneath!! during LD29)
Ludum Dare [29] topic for other games - A thread about LD29 games
Ludum Dare 23 - (I made Be Tiny, World! during LD23, and continued to work on it and improve it for years afterward!)
Ludum Dare - Game Programming Challenges

Living Room / Looking for audio merger Y-cable
« on: March 12, 2020, 10:58 PM »
I'd like an audio Y-cable that can take two audio inputs and merge them into a single audio output. My searches so far find only audio splitters rather than audio mergers, which tells me that either such a thing does not exist or I don't know what they're called and thus am not using the correct search terms to find what I'm looking for.

Does anyone here know whether or not such a thing exists, and if so, what they're called or where I can find them?

I suppose it doesn't need to be a Y-cable. But I would like something that can take two audio inputs and merge them into a single audio output which I can connect my headphones to and hear both at the same time without disturbing others near me. Preferably something small, uncomplicated (no additional power source or software, etc. required), and inexpensive.

Thanks in advance for your helpful input on the topic. :Thmbsup:

Living Room / Do good mice still exist? Looking for recommendations.
« on: February 13, 2020, 05:57 PM »
Hello all,

Sorry that this turned into a bit of a rant, but I felt I needed to explain my many years of frustrations with trying to find a reliable mouse for my computer.

I used to be a big fan of an older, wired, Logitech Trackman mouse. It lasted me somewhere between 5-10 years before it was stolen along with my computer. When I looked for a replacement, they didn't offer it anymore, and the closest I could find was the wireless Logitech M570 ($50-$60). It was basically the same design, but wireless, so I figured it was good enough. And I liked it well enough until a couple years later I started having issues which indicate that the microswitch is failing in the mouse button(s).

1. Sometimes a click doesn't register at all.
2. Sometimes a single click registers as a double click.
3. Sometimes a click & drag registers as a single click & release.

When it started happening, it was so rare that I'd think it was just user error. But as time went on the problem grew worse and worse until every few clicks would result in one of the above symptoms happening.

So I bought a new mouse of the same model. Over the course of the next couple of years, the same issue would arise. So I bought a new mouse of the same model and repeated the process again. The primary reason for buying the same model again and again was because I wanted the trackball controlled with my thumb, and it was the only model I could find that was designed like that. I was annoyed that the microswitch kept failing so quickly, but to me the thumb trackball was a must-have feature. But eventually I started feeling pain in my thumb/wrist from my use of the trackball, so I decided to go for a more traditional style of a mouse to give my thumb a rest.

So then I got another Logitech mouse which I think was similar to the Logitech M705 ($50). And within a couple of years I experienced the same issues as previous mice.

By this time I was tired of "throwing away" $50+ every couple of years on new mice when the mice I'd had in the past had lasted me longer than the computers I was using them on. So I decided I'd just go buy a crappy cheapo mouse and if it crapped out on me within 1-2 years then that wouldn't be any worse than the big brand mice I'd been using, and it would save me money along the way.

Somewhere in the middle of all this I started buying replacement microswitches and dipping my toes into the soldering required to replace them in my own mice, but of course the microswitches I bought off of places like aliexpress or Deal Extreme were cheap ones that began failing within about a year and the time and effort of doing the soldering myself made me look for the cheapest (and least time-consuming) way I could get a functional mouse again.

So I started buying the AmazonBasics 3-button wired mouse for $6-$7 and was not disappointed. They're a little small, but they're functional, don't need batteries, and they usually last about a year or so before the clicking issue becomes unbearable. Really the only complaint (aside from the expected short lifespan) is that the small size can lead to some relatively minor hand cramping.

After going through several of those over the course of several years, I decided I'd try my luck with a more expensive mouse that might be a bit higher quality and last a little longer, so I bought the AmazonBasics Gaming Mouse (~$25) advertised as having "gaming-optimized Omron mouse switches—durable up to 50 million clicks."From my perspective, this mouse was 3-4 times as expensive as the $6-$7 mouse, so it should last 3-4 times as long to be cost effective.

Within 9 months the clicking issues were already annoying me so much I wrote a negative review on Amazon about it. Then, just before the 1-year warranty was up, I got a free replacement in the hopes that the first one was just a fluke. Again, about 7-9 months after receiving the replacement, the clicking issues started becoming obnoxious again. It seems crazy to me that this "gaming quality" mouse has a shorter lifespan than the cheapest piece of junk mouse they sell!

So, desperate to find anything worthwhile, and willing to try just about anything, I decided to try the Nulaxy Vertical mouse ($12-$15). I should have known not to trust an unheard of brand like Nulaxy, but I figured if it lasted a year or so then it might be worth it for the extra comfort that would come from the more ergonomic vertical design.

But nope! In the first week of use I already experienced the clicking issues, as well as other problems that make it unacceptable as my regular, every day mouse. I'm returning it.

Where are all the good mice? How come nothing I've bought in the past decade (or longer) has lasted me at least 2 years?

Right now I'm back to the tried and true, cheapo $7 wired AmazonBasics 3-button mouse and pretty much given up hope of finding any decent mouse that will last a good 5-10 years. Is there anything that lasts even 2-5 years anymore? I can get about 18 months of life out of this simple mouse before I feel it needs a replacement. I'm willing to spend more money on a mouse, but I expect it to last me long enough for the cost to be justified. If I buy a $70 mouse it better last me close to 10 years (or maybe only 5 if it's extremely comfortable and/or has convenient features).

I'm starting to get wild ideas of just buying the $6-$7 AmazonBasics 3-button mouse, taking it apart, and putting the internals into a custom made, 3D-printed shell that is more comfortable to hold. Maybe I'll design my own vertical-style mouse shell and finally have a comfortable mouse that will last me a good 1.5 years or more before needing an inexpensive repair/replacement.

And my experience with short keyboard lifespans has been similar, though not quite as drastic. I really loved the Logitech K800, but didn't like paying $100 every 3 years when the keys started failing just after the warranty expired.

Living Room / Google Home Mini - Is yours as useless as mine?
« on: January 27, 2020, 10:23 PM »
Okay, it's not really mine, but someone I know recently got a Google Home Mini and at first it worked fine. Then a day or two later it started refusing to do anything, saying something to the effect of "Sorry, I can't play music while content filters are enabled."

The owner and I both looked through the Google Home settings and saw that no content filters were enabled. We managed to get it working again by actually setting up the content filters and setting them to "can play anything." Then a few days later, it started refusing to do anything again, giving the same excuse about content filters. Somehow we got it working again, maybe by disabling the content filters, but once again only for a couple of days and now it's refusing to do anything again, saying that content filters are enabled and preventing it from playing music.

I'm exaggerating a little. When I say it is refusing to do anything, it probably would still answer questions asked of it. But it refuses to play music, and that's the primary reason it was obtained (it came free with a Spotify subscription).

I've tried searching for a solution, but the only results I seem to get are help pages telling me how to enable content filters. We don't want content filters or restrictions of any kind. We just want music! My search results are not showing any forum posts by others experiencing similar issues and troubleshooting steps to resolve the issue.

So how do we get the thing to realize that there are no content filters enabled, and just play music when people ask it to?

General Software Discussion / In search of good Equalizer Software
« on: January 17, 2020, 12:18 PM »
I'm looking for good equalizer software for my PC (Windows 10).

My speakers are, by default, very bass heavy, and very light on the treble. In order for me to be able to clearly hear the upper range, such as talking, I have to turn the volume up loud enough that when some deep/low bass sound comes out, it's very loud.

I used to have access to something on Windows 7. I think maybe it was the audio driver software. But (1) it didn't allow me to adjust the levels as much as I wanted to and (2) on Windows 10 my audio works without installing the driver from the manufacturer, so the equalizer software that came with the driver is no longer installed on my machine.

Does anyone know of any good software that allows me to adjust the levels for a particular audio output device? That is, I tend to use headphones a lot, and they are fine and don't need adjustments. But when I'm just using the regular speakers I would like to be able to crank up the treble and vastly reduce the bass.


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