Author Topic: Software for planning wood bookcases/cabinets/tables etc? (Read 439,652 times)

mouser · « **Reply #75 on:** October 20, 2007, 05:58 PM »

My latest creation, 5 hours from idea to store to completion:

TucknDar · « **Reply #76 on:** October 20, 2007, 06:03 PM »

I take it this is so you can write code on your laptop while... you know.

cranioscopical · « **Reply #77 on:** October 20, 2007, 06:27 PM »

I've heard of going to the can, but this is ridiculous!

TucknDar · « **Reply #78 on:** October 20, 2007, 06:31 PM »

Quote from: cranioscopical on October 20, 2007, 06:27 PM

I've heard of going to the can, but this is ridiculous!

mouser · « **Reply #79 on:** October 30, 2007, 07:22 AM »

My latest creation, a spice rack:

Essential Spices? Found List 1 and Found List 2.

Carol Haynes · « **Reply #80 on:** October 30, 2007, 10:32 AM »

An we all thought you were off programming for filthy lucre - now we know the truth ... you've hung up you keyboard for a hammer and chisel !

cranioscopical · « **Reply #81 on:** October 30, 2007, 06:09 PM »

Quote from: Carol Haynes on October 30, 2007, 10:32 AM

An we all thought you were off programming for filthy lucre - now we know the truth ... you've hung up you keyboard for a hammer and chisel !

It's only a small rack, Carol. It can't have taken much thyme.

Nice job, Mouser!

mouser · « **Reply #82 on:** October 30, 2007, 06:31 PM »

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It's only a small rack, Carol. It can't have taken much thyme.

well done.

CodeTRUCKER · « **Reply #83 on:** January 03, 2008, 11:15 AM »

Any time an individual attempts to make something better, I say Hurrah!

CodeTRUCKER · « **Reply #84 on:** January 03, 2008, 11:18 AM »

So that is the bookcase, ironing board (alias:privy table) and a spice rack. Anything else?

mouser · « **Reply #85 on:** May 28, 2008, 02:36 AM »

I mean to post this a while ago, my recent project to add an upper layer of cabinets in my kitchen, for some storage space and space for cookbooks:

ps. making (panel) doors is not as easy as the rest of the skills i've learned.. hard to make them straight.

Darwin · « **Reply #86 on:** May 28, 2008, 03:05 AM »

Looks great, mouser. A very nicely organized kitchen

Looks like someone is a Home Depot fan!

cranioscopical · « **Reply #87 on:** May 28, 2008, 03:52 AM »

Quote from: mouser on May 28, 2008, 02:36 AM

making (panel) doors is not as easy as the rest of the skills i've learned

When it comes to routers it's all too easy to confuse cordless with wireless

Nice job there! Where do you store the pogo stick?

mouser · « **Reply #88 on:** May 28, 2008, 03:56 AM »

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Where do you store the pogo stick?

yeah it does require a chair or ladder to get into those cabinets, but they are mainly for storage so it's ok.

yeah i used a router and dowels this time. the router caused about a 4 inch high layer of wood shavings on the floor. the dowels are hard to get straight with a non-table-mounted drill, even with a dowel jig, that was the most troublesome part.

by the way my cordless set includes a cordless circular saw -- works great, highly recommended. less cumbersome than corded one and works fine on regular 2x lumber and plywood.

mouser · « **Reply #89 on:** August 04, 2009, 12:29 PM »

I've been planning a new project, a real doozy. Stay tuned.

mouser · « **Reply #90 on:** August 10, 2009, 08:18 PM »

I started out this thread over a year ago asking if anyone had any recommendations for software that would help in planning woodworking projects, etc.

More than a year later I actually went looking for home design software -- not quite the same but close enough.

After testing quite a few (TurboFloor, Punch, SweetHome 3d) I settled on one that I liked best, called Home Designer. There are actually a series of different editions, and a guide for picking which edition you need here. I would recommend the "Suite" version which is $99.

Based on the capabilities of the program I'd say $99 was a bargain -- it's a *VERY* impressive tool.

My original aim was just to model my kitchen so I could experiment with tearing down a wall, but I eneded up creating a complete model of my condo apartment which is startling accurate. Note this is a serious tool and it will take you a while to get the hang of it, but it's really cool and fun stuff.

Some images:

CodeTRUCKER · « **Reply #91 on:** December 08, 2009, 06:48 AM »

Hey Mouser,
Do you really have the archways in on the hall? Just so happens, I have been looking for the same thing, but the $99 is a little tough to come by. Oh well, that's what wish lists are for, right?
Nice pad!

mouser · « **Reply #92 on:** April 05, 2010, 10:58 PM »

Time to revive this thread and show how useful this kind of software is.

I'm thinking of doing some DIY kitchen remodeling on my place, and i've created some mockups that i need some feedback on. Let me know which layout you think would be best.

Here is my *current* kitchen, as it is now:
[attachthumb]

nosh · « **Reply #93 on:** April 06, 2010, 06:48 AM »

I love the first layout. The half wall not only looks good but could also be practical for serving, etc. You could try anchoring the wall to brackets fitted inside the door frame for added stability.

cranioscopical · « **Reply #94 on:** April 06, 2010, 01:26 PM »

My feeling is that the half-wall/cabinet provides important screening of kitchen activities while still keeping you in the loop with guests.

Also, because your kitchen is so high, the views with completely open access to the kitchen make the kitchen itself look narrow and unwelcoming. In contrast, the half-wall protruding into the opening serves as a visual barrier to slow down the path that the eye follows through the space, thus making the space look bigger. The half-wall also causes the eye to linger at a lower level, rather than hitting the end wall and moving up a narrow space.

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This one keeps the half wall island idea but solves the stability thing because its attached to other cabinet:

Presumably you'd make the top of the half-wall cabinet and the adjacent cabinet as one piece. That and a decent floor anchor would provide all the stability you need (well, for the furnishings, at least

).

Have you considered an over-the-stove microwave instead of overhanging cupboards?

mouser · « **Reply #95 on:** April 06, 2010, 01:31 PM »

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Have you considered an over-the-stove microwave instead of overhanging cupboards?

Indeed i have, since it's clear now that the cabinets above the new stove location just would be against code because of fire risk.

A problem is that those cabinets are only 12" deep, so a microwave is going to just out several inches (at least 3!), which would seem to me pretty ugly, especially if you're going to see the side of it when looking in.

I also really like those two big cabinets that are there..

mouser · « **Reply #96 on:** April 06, 2010, 02:01 PM »

And here with the cabinet above removed except for small open shelf -- i could use that as a mini pot rack and hang some frying pans or something from it.. i just don't love the idea of losing that cabinet and the loss of symmetry on that wall..

[attachthumb]

cranioscopical · « **Reply #97 on:** April 06, 2010, 02:22 PM »

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I also really like those two big cabinets that are there..

With the first layout, I really don't think you'd have much trouble contriving a stable base for the 'half-wall' cabinet.
Assuming you don't wish to use the 'bungee cord around the stove' technique, a sturdy top fixing into the wall at the left (looking in) combined with a decent base anchored to the floor should make that pretty well immovable.

mouser · « **Reply #98 on:** April 06, 2010, 02:28 PM »

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a sturdy top fixing into the wall at the left (looking in) combined with a decent base anchored to the floor

just remember this is a 1929 plaster and metal lathe building with steel girders.. i have no idea what im going to find in that left wall to anchor to, and the floor area under the half-wall is concrete with half hardwood and half kitchen tile on top of it.. it is not going to be simple to anchor down into that concrete without doing some surgery on the adjacent kitchen tiles and hardwood, etc. stuff that will be nervewracking and permanent. a huge advantage of building a bigger island area on the left is being able to skip all that.

cranioscopical · « **Reply #99 on:** April 06, 2010, 02:41 PM »

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a 1929 plaster and metal lathe building with steel girders

I don't see the problem — a good oxy-acetylene torch, a couple of sledge-hammers… you'll be able to look down on your neighbors in no time!