I'd advise against nvu, or anything WYSIWYG editor -- especially if your initial goal is to learn how HTML works. It's like driving a car -- you're better off to learn on a manual transmission. Learn that, you can drive anything later on.
That said, the websites listed here are good resources, they don't offer much for the fledgling would-be web developer.
That said, I strongly recommend HTML Dog
. Their stuff is, suprisingly, as easy to read as it is competent -- wish they had this stuff around when I was learning HTML
HTMLDog is mindful of web standards as well -- so you won't just be learning how to get by, you'll be learning how to craft succinct, proper (x)html -- a feat most wysiwyg editors don't do themselves. If you want to do something, do it right . . . right?
As far as easy to edit pages go, you could give my Wiki
a try -- though the template is the only place html is used, it's fairly easily managed.