Recent Posts

5126

Living Room / Re: XP Reinstall - some thoughts - be prepared

« Last post by 4wd on June 22, 2009, 02:44 AM »

If you do an image before a new install, are you actually using the config files from an "image" perspective, or are you using the image software as simply another way to accomplish the file-to-file copy ? (The type of copy I did with Free Commander).

-Steven Avery (June 21, 2009, 10:59 PM)

Yes and no, I still copy across configs for programs that don't have some kind of import/export function but the image is a kind of safety-net.
I know damn well that I'll forget to copy some program's config file or some esoteric command/batch/program that I've long since forgotten where it came from....in that case, I can just mount the image and copy off what I've forgotten.
Normally, this image will have about a 6 month life span - if I find I haven't used it for the last 6 months, it gets deleted.  Possibly sooner if I'm sure I don't need anything in it.

My Eudora loaded without a hitch.  With some gigs of mail copied over. That is another reason I don't like image programs .. you are unlikely to have "todays mail" in the image.  I'd prefer to retweak settings than lose a half day's mail. Ok, granted, you are supposed to put the data on another partition.

This is where I prefer a portable application, (in my case, Portable Thunderbird), a single directory - copy it where you like, archive it to backup everything, no loss of where it was up to downloading mail if it's moved.  It's just so easy

For fun, before I loaded my Eudora mail back in I did the DriveImageXML, Macrium and Paragon images ... all freebies, after SP3, IE8 and some file manager and browser and very basic installs.  If for some reason I found myself in the same situation in a few weeks, I might try to save a couple of hours with this very early image.

You might find it easier to slipstream in SP3, IE8 and possibly a few of your basic installs.  nlite is just as good as doing simple things like this, as it is at getting into the nitty-gritty of removing half of your OS.

If nothing else, it will knock a good hour off of a re-install just by integrating SP3/IE8.

Addendum: I should mention that my images turn out to be rather small due to the way my drives are organised.  A typical image of the complete OS is about 4-5GB, (this is my current install that's been on here for about 12 months IIRC, and has all the programs I normally use installed), at maximum compression, so I can afford to have a few of them lying around.

5127

Living Room / Re: XP Reinstall - some thoughts - be prepared

« Last post by 4wd on June 21, 2009, 09:19 PM »

Personally I think images are overrated.  When your system locks up it is time for a reinstall, not to go back to a cluttered system.  Just have a few tools ready and waiting.

-Steven Avery (June 21, 2009, 06:08 PM)

Same here, even though I have the software, (both TIH11 and now HDMS2009), the only times I actually do an image is:
a) before a reinstall of the system;
b) after a reinstall of the system.

(a) - In case I forgot to grab the settings for a program.
(b) - In case I screw up installing something immediately after re-install.
(c) - When I want to test an OS on real hardware but don't have the inclination to build or drag out and connect another computer.

But since I use mainly portable apps, (a) is less of a problem due to them being all located on a separate partition/drive.

1) UBCD4 for the final saves - if possible

Prefer making my own PE environment, (BartPE/LiveXP/VistaPE/WinPE3), for this because I can include the tools I'm more likely to need as well as one's I have bought that will run from a PE.

2) Install CDs

Make ISO images and store them on an external drive, (or write to a DVD), along with Microsoft Virtual CD-ROM Control Panel - doesn't require installation and all your install discs are then in one place so there's no need to keep swapping discs.

3) Driver .exe - saved with Double Driver (superb) or a comparable program

nlite XP with the MassStorage and LAN DriverPacks included, plus any esoteric hardware for my particular computer - this gives me an OS disc that will install on pretty much any HDD interface and have a network enabled without installing any extra drivers.  Plus specifically tailored to my computer hardware.

Know your installs, your serial numbers (even what release and maybe keep the installer if a paid version) and your passwords.  This can all be in a PIM , depending on your security setup.

Kept in f0dder's fSekrit program and written to the external drive/disc along with the install programs.

EDIT: Added (c) to imaging since I'm in the process of doing it 

5128

General Software Discussion / Re: List of the best available software

« Last post by 4wd on June 21, 2009, 06:58 PM »

- the link will trigger some pop-up advert of a kind:

-Curt (June 21, 2009, 04:57 PM)

orgfree.com is a free web hosting service and in line with the majority of them you have to agree to display their advertising, that's all.

I didn't get any advertising, no doubt due to Adblock or NoScript.

From orgfree.com's ToS paragraph 1:

You may not remove, resize so as to render invisible or unreadable, or otherwise block any of the ads that FreeWebHostingArea.com inserts onto your web pages.

5129

Living Room / Re: What annoys you to no end?

« Last post by 4wd on June 21, 2009, 06:45 PM »

Trying to load a site, and the advertising server makes the site take forever to respond.

-wraith808 (June 21, 2009, 11:32 AM)

Plus those sites that use Google Analytics but in such a way that you can't use any button unless you allow it because you've blocked it in, eg. NoScript.

Not to mention idiots who think it's OK to have a website that's nothing but one big Flash animation or uses nothing but Flash because the designer was too stupid to realise there are people who don't want to, (or can't), use Flash crap.

Especially when it's a commercial site.

5130

Living Room / Re: What annoys you to no end?

« Last post by 4wd on June 21, 2009, 04:05 AM »

J-Mac - I agree 100% and so does my Mum! It's not necessary...

-CleverCat (June 21, 2009, 02:21 AM)

Surely it depends on the context?

eg. The Exorcist - Yes, it was split pea soup but was an integral part of the movie.
     Team America: World Police - So over the top that no one could actually think it was gross, (although I'm not sure whether to class this film as an actual documentary or not ).

5131

General Software Discussion / Re: What is best program to create a DVD from any video file?

« Last post by 4wd on June 20, 2009, 10:35 PM »

I would have mentioned the ATI convertor, but I thought he was looking for a DVD authoring program rather than a video transcoder.

-Innuendo (June 20, 2009, 07:51 PM)

Initially it was about an enquiry about AIO types, video transcode to DVD, eg. ConvertX-to-DVD, WinAVI Video Converter, etc.

But it's kind of digressed, (as is usual here ), into what people think is the best as asked back here.

Oh, and to let you in on ATI's dirty little secret, their convertor doesn't use the GPU at all. When it was first released it was said it would get the ability to use the GPU at a later date. We're all still waiting for that day to come.

Yeah, I read all that when it first came out and to be truthful, any decent encoder will currently knock it for six, (eg. ffmpeg, which the majority of freeware is based on: Avidemux, mencoder, etc), in terms of speed/quality ratio and configuration but I thought I'd mention it just for completeness because it is one of the easiest to use and the output is still decent.

Plus it's something easy to try if you have an ATI GPU, even though it doesn't use it - I'm still searching for the mythical GPU based video encoder, there's only one that I know of and unfortunately it's expensive and nVidia only IIRC.

Edit: I found a link that says they switched it on starting with driver 8.12 - still, the performance gains currently aren't anything that couldn't be achieved through code optimisation.

5132

General Software Discussion / Re: What is best program to create a DVD from any video file?

« Last post by 4wd on June 20, 2009, 07:40 PM »

One more thing I forgot to mention, a free video converter that you may not even know you had - I certainly didn't until a vague mention on a site stirred up long dormant memories 

If you have a recent ATI video card, (I have a HD4850), then there's a video converter you can download along with the latest Catalyst Control Center - the ATI Avivo Video Converter.

Choose a video file, choose the output format, (iPod, MPEG4, Portable Media Center, MPEG1, Super VCD, DVD, MPEG2, etc), choose the output quality, hit Start.

Results are a decent quality, (possibly a bit softer than I'd like), even though it does screw things up sometimes, (eg. PAL avi converted to NTSC MPEG even though it correctly recognised it at 25fps).

And it is fast, 349MB 48 minute 624x352 MPEG4-ASP video converted to 1.2GB, 8Mb/s 480x272(?!) DVD, (this is not a DVD compatible frame size - wth are they doing!?), in just over 5 minutes.

Then it's just a matter getting them onto a DVD, either by authoring or as files.

One thing, make sure the Catalyst Control Center is in Basic Mode or else you'll have a very hard time finding it.

Personally, I don't use because of the limited control you have over the output - if they added options for output resizing and sharpness, then I might start using it more often and get some use out of the GPU.

5133

General Software Discussion / Re: What is best program to create a DVD from any video file?

« Last post by 4wd on June 19, 2009, 02:18 AM »

On the .mpg playback, maybe players are better now at handling data DVDs but I've had players that would only play the first .mpg file in the list.

-MilesAhead (June 19, 2009, 12:47 AM)

We have a better class of cheap Chinese imports here in Australia 

Plus I only write ISO9660/UDF format DVDs, (data and video), so the player never has to deal with foreign formats like Toilet...err...Joliet.

The only problem I've ever had is with the player not liking the DVD brand.

5134

General Software Discussion / Re: What is best program to create a DVD from any video file?

« Last post by 4wd on June 18, 2009, 11:43 PM »

I am a little surprised that no one has mentioned ConvertX to DVD, Video DVD Maker, or DVD Flick.

-KenR (June 18, 2009, 11:16 PM)

I did actually try ConvertX to DVD way back when it first came out but I found I had much more control over the output with WinAVI so I kind of stuck with that - it might of been seriously upgraded since then though so that's one reason why I didn't mention it, (the other is I forgot )

Arrghh!  My brain hurts!

Yes I also tried Video DVD Maker Free but again, compared to the control I had over the final product using discrete programs, (DVDLab and one of the encoders I mentioned), I never really progressed past trying it.

I also tried DVDAuthorGUI:

The gui is meant to be an easy means to create a basic DVD.

My brain must have been on holiday at that point because it drove me crazy after about 10 minutes and I gave up.  Read: I couldn't do what I wanted easily and gave up.

Addendum: BTW, I have yet to see over the years since DVD players first appeared, any DVD player that won't play a straight MPEG1 or MPEG2 file directly off of a disc.  So if you're not concerned with fancy menus or chapter points you can try just encoding your various clips to MPEG2 format using Avidemux and then just writing them to a DVD as files with .mpg extensions.

5135

Living Room / Re: Upgrading Video and Power Supply on an Dell XPS 400

« Last post by 4wd on June 18, 2009, 10:22 PM »

If you have an old or even a new standard ATX PSU laying around, you could plug it in and see if the computer will boot.  If it does, then you could see if it is the same size as the old one.  That would be a bit more work though, especially if it doesn't fit.

-techidave (June 18, 2009, 09:39 PM)

That's not a good idea if the manufacturer of the PC is known to use proprietary plugs/sockets, (as Dell was), you could end up with a totally dead motherboard.

Dang it!  40Hz snuck in ahead of me

5136

General Software Discussion / Re: Free Pdf server?

« Last post by 4wd on June 18, 2009, 09:02 PM »

You might have to set the privileges for various programs to allow them to run, I don't know since I only run in an admin account on XP32.

Also, the command line parameters for AcroBat (Reader/Full) aren't technically supported but have been reported to be stable, (I don't use it, it's too bloated and slow for my tastes) - if they don't work you can always use Auto(It/Hk) to run your PDF viewer of choice and simulate keys/buttons/etc.

Also note, FileNotify2 is now freeware as of 24-03-09 - it may have better integration into XP since it relies on .NET and it does have more options, (like integrated cron and scripting).

Bit sad but if you want to use the example MoveFTP to Copy a file:
From Google Groups:

For the copy sample use the MoveFTP template and replace
System.IO.File.Move by System.IO.File.Copy.

There is no license restriction, registered users don't receive a
registration key by the way.
I wanted to do a cheap product with no license restriction.
I wrote several shareware (url2bmp, url2jpeg, FileNotify2... 20000
download/year total) with no restriction and for 3 years I only
received $15 for all of these.
I don't think I will write other shareware.

Cheer,
Remi

5137

General Software Discussion / Re: What is best program to create a DVD from any video file?

« Last post by 4wd on June 18, 2009, 07:42 PM »

For consumer level authoring of DVD menus I don't think there's anything that comes close to DVDLab - it won't do encoding but they sell TMPGEnc DVD Source Creator for US$12

The DVDLab Studio version is probably the best all round version of the three DVDLab versions at US$129, I use it, (well, I actually use the Pro version because I want to mix aspect ratios on a single DVD), and considering what you can do, it is extremely simple to use.

For encoding, I've used:
(Retail versions)
MainConcept encoder - blindingly fast and good quality  (I've only used their original MPEG2 encoder which they no longer sell, having been replaced by Reference and CODEC plugins which are ridiculously expensive).  SMP capable - the more processors, the better,
CCE Trial version - good quality but nowhere near as fast as MainConcept (and the trial version is severely limited)
TMPGEnc - good quality output but very slow compared to the above two

(Freeware)
Avidemux - It'll take most files as an input and then you just select DVD from the Auto menu (although the latest build seems to be missing the script for that, 2.4.4 still has it though - they've changed the scripting slightly and haven't caught up I think) - good output and fast  - what I mostly use these days since it lets me do some editing as well.  Also SMP capable.

(AIO convert and simple menu)
WinAVI Video Converter - reasonable quality, fast and let's you merge clips and automatically create a menu with a button per clip - I used to use it a lot for MPEG4 to DVD but I now have a standalone that does MPEG4-ASP so don't bother with it.

So, after that lot what I basically use these days is:
DVDLab Pro almost exclusively if I have to author a DVD with/without menus;
Avidemux for basic editing and conversion;
A really old version of Sony Vegas 5.0 that I picked up cheap on ebay, (or a computer swap meet, I forget where), if I have to do any more involved editing with transformations or have to resync video/audio before conversion, (being able to see the waveform together with video makes it so much easier than just trying to listen).

For a cheap selection I'd probably recommend:
DVDLab Standard + TMPGEnc DVD Source Creator - It will let you do quality conversion and DVD authoring for US$111, (as long as you don't need the features of Studio or Pro, eg. if you need SubTitles you have to get at least Studio).
Avidemux - for basic editing and fast decent quality conversion of a variety of video formats.

I should mention there are freeware DVD authoring programs but I can't comment on them, as soon as I tried DVDLab I was sold

Oh yeah, for burning - always and only ImgBurn is what I use.

5138

Living Room / Re: Need to d'load unavailable soft - but where is safe?

« Last post by 4wd on June 18, 2009, 02:20 AM »

How about $13-00 for a replacement CD?

Here's one on ebay as long as you're in the USA.

5139

General Software Discussion / Re: Free Pdf server?

« Last post by 4wd on June 18, 2009, 01:16 AM »

Otherwise, you could set your PDF printer to always save to the same directory and then use a simple(?) AutoIt(Hk) script to watch for any new PDFs and send them onto the machine with the printer by either having the print machine watch a directory, print then delete anything that appears or by injecting into it's print queue directly.

-4wd (June 14, 2009, 09:29 PM)

And that is something I have already mentioned. I just am not that experienced with Ahk and do not know much about Autoit. I know python but WIn32 automation is not something I have done at all but I will check it out, so I will probably do it in Python.

-kartal (June 14, 2009, 11:36 PM)

You still haven't said what type of machine the Canon printer is connected to but providing it's a Windows box, here's a solution:

In the following PDFPrinter refers to the PC generating the PDFs and RealPrinter refers to the PC with the Canon printer.

Download FileNotify and install it on both machines following the directions on the page - very simple.

On the PDFPrinter run the fnAdmin.exe command, it will ask to open the FileNotify parameter file, (default FileNotify.txt in the FileNotify directory), select Open.  On the next window select Add.
Select as below filling in the appropriate paths as necessary:



On the RealPrinter run the fnAdmin.exe command, it will ask to open the FileNotify parameter file, (default FileNotify.txt in the FileNotify directory), select Open.  On the next window select Add.
Select as below filling in the appropriate paths as necessary:



The PrintDelete.cmd resides in the FileNotify directory and is as follows:

[Select]

rem AcroRd32.exe /t path printername drivername portname
rem Initiates Acrobat Reader, prints a file while suppressing
rem the Acrobat print dialog box, then terminates Reader.

AcroRd32.exe /t "%1" "Canon Super Printer" "Canon Super Printer Driver" "USB001"
del "%1"

NOTE: You need Acrobat Reader installed on the PC that's to do the real printing - the reason is simple, it's almost impossible to find any program that will print a PDF from the command line, (GhostScript may but I'm not going to bother installing it find out.)

Parameters for AcroRd32.exe, (or AcroBat), are as follows:

The four parameters of the /t option evaluate to:
path, printername, drivername, and portname (all strings).
path - the path and file to print.
printername - The name of your printer.
drivername - Your printer driver 's name.  Whatever appears in the Driver Used box when you view your printer 's properties.
portname - The printer 's port.  portname cannot contain any "/" characters; if it does, output is routed to the default port for that printer.

If using Acrobat,substitute Acrobat.exe in place of AcroRd32.exe in the command lines.

Last step, fire up services.msc and start the File Notification service.

The theory goes:
a) PDF is generated into the folder watched by that PC.
b) FileNotify performs the action which is to copy it to a shared directory on the other PC for printing.
c) The new PDF triggers FileNotify on the printing PC which calls PrintDelete.cmd
d) PrintDelete.cmd prints the PDF using AcroBat, (or Reader), and then deletes the file.
e) Job Done.

The theory is sound but I haven't tested it.

You, of course, have to make sure the folder is accessible for the PDF to be copied to as there's no error checking if it doesn't.

5140

Living Room / Re: Getting spam with my friends email address in the subject line

« Last post by 4wd on June 17, 2009, 10:44 PM »

Are the consequences similar, no matter where I open the potentially harmful mail from, be it webmail or Outlook? Hmm...

-SKesselman (June 17, 2009, 09:46 PM)

Yes, I would expect so - probably even easier in webmail since you're already looking at it in a browser that's designed to load images from all over the internet.

Unless, of course, the webmail service gives you some measure of control over what you choose to display while you're online.

1. Yes it's old but still valid - there is no reason to send HTML in an email.   Any sent to me usually end up deleted rather than read and I blame it on a message filter if someone asks  

-4wd (June 17, 2009, 04:17 PM)

I tried that for a while, and all it did was piss people off. Seriously.

The obvious answer to those people is, "Well, I don't know how valuable your personal data is but I actually take steps to protect mine."

Alternatively, you could scramble the <html> tags and forward it back to them asking where in the load of rubbish is the pertinent information.

For a while I actually toyed with the idea of creating a filter that auto-responded with that website before deleting the offending message.
Now-a-days people tend to know me better and don't send me things I have no intention of looking at, (like bl**dy PowerPoint attachments for stupid jokes), because they know it'll just get deleted.

it's old but still valid - there is no reason to send HTML in an email.

-4wd (June 17, 2009, 04:17 PM)

is anyone aware of a reason why HTML mail persists?

-Target (June 17, 2009, 10:31 PM)

That's easy, have a look at any PC running Windows - OE, (and probably Outlook), and Thunderbird, (IIRC, it's been awhile since I last installed let alone configured it), both default to HTML email and replying to email in the format it was sent.

I don't know about any other email clients but since you're talking about probably the most used one, (OE), it comes back to being "people don't know any better."

They see the pretty emails they can send but they don't see all the junk that's sent to do it, neither are they aware of the risk involved in receiving the damn things.

5141

Living Room / Re: Getting spam with my friends email address in the subject line

« Last post by 4wd on June 17, 2009, 04:17 PM »

They could have got your friend's email address from virtually anywhere.

eg.
1) Your friend used it to register at a site that was hacked, has a less than 'nice' policy regarding sharing of personal info, or was of a 'questionable' nature.
2) Your friend responded to a spam email by clicking a link in it which confirmed a working email address.
3) A friend of a friend of your friend had their PC infected with virus that sent emails to everyone in their email addressbook and so propagated a list of working email addresses.
4) Spammers bulk email millions of random addresses, any that aren't bounced are classed as valid, (one problem I wish GMail would fix instead of just forwarding to the closest sound-alike).
5) ad infinitum.

I'm hesitant to open it, just to see what it says.

-SKesselman (June 17, 2009, 03:57 PM)

Never, ever open a suspected spam email unless you have your email client properly configured.

By properly, IMHO, at the very least only configured to send/display all messages as plain text, (see here¹), and to never send a receipt saying it's been received or read.

1. Yes it's old but still valid - there is no reason to send HTML in an email.   Any sent to me usually end up deleted rather than read and I blame it on a message filter if someone asks  

5142

General Software Discussion / Re: disk space analysis by extension (for backup decisions)

« Last post by 4wd on June 17, 2009, 03:22 PM »

Ahh .. good to know on WinDirStat. Loading it at work now.

-Steven Avery (June 17, 2009, 09:43 AM)

Dang it!  Lashiec beat me with WinDirStat, that was my next suggestion.

However, I will add it is portable - just extract it from the installer, (or install, copy, uninstall), and you're good to go.

5143

General Software Discussion / Re: disk space analysis by extension (for backup decisions)

« Last post by 4wd on June 17, 2009, 01:13 AM »

Disk Analyzer - small, standalone with a boring Win95 look.



However, it does work.  Give it a drive to look at and when it's finished you can sort by Type which will give you the total space taken up by various extensions.

It keeps the results from previous analysis, so you can choose one and see how it's changed from a current one.

You can print the results, graph the results, it's portable and it's free.......what's not to like?

Also, with the saving of previous analysis thing, you can just stick it on a flash drive, plug it into a PC, select a prior job and do an update - no need to install on all PCs.

And I guess if you map network drives you might also be able to use it on them, haven't tried it though (I don't do mapping ).

5144

Living Room / Re: Looking for P2p file sharing for personal use

« Last post by 4wd on June 16, 2009, 11:42 PM »

4wd, very tight stuff man, thank you I will definetely go through this. You had done the hard work!!!

-kartal (June 16, 2009, 11:21 PM)

No problem, make sure you're forwarding the port, (default 1194), you use through any routers and firewalls otherwise you'll be going like I was.

Attached is the server/client configs/certs/keys in the directory structure they should appear in, in case I wasn't clear - I think the certs/keys are machine specific and are in a database on the key signing PC, (my XP machine in this case), so they might or might not work as is.

You can compare the configs to the original samples using WinMerge, Beyond Compare, etc to see what changes were necessary.

5145

Living Room / Re: Looking for P2p file sharing for personal use

« Last post by 4wd on June 16, 2009, 11:11 PM »

Of the 5 or so times that I tried to get VPN working over the years I found that, (for XP anyway), using MS's VPN was an absolute PITA to get working and in the end I gave up trying to use it, (this was over both internet and even LAN where I had total control over the machines).

OTOH, OpenVPN was rather easier and I had a connection working in under an hour with a friend over the internet even though I'd never used it before.

I haven't had a VPN running for a while, no longer had a need and Hamachi is quicker although it unfortunately relies on you having a internet connection and the arbitration servers being accessible.

But, while I was typing this reply I decided to try and setup OpenVPN again from my XP Pro-SP3 PC to a Win7 x86 PC I just built for someone and it still took under an hour to get the two machines connected in a server->multiple client configuration, (as opposed to ad-hoc type).

10 minutes to download and install on both machines, (I had to make a cuppa too).
15 minutes reading the HOW-TO and generating the server/client certificates/keys, editing the config to use them and copying them to the respective places.
30-40 minutes trying to work out why they couldn't ping each other.....damn firewall, Outpost can be too protective sometimes  

For Vista or Win7 use the latest 2.1rc, setting privileges as mentioned here.
For XP I just used the current 2.09 release build.

The XP machine was to be the server, the Win7 a client - follow the instructions here for generating certificates/keys for the server and each client using the example names for the server/clients they give, (it makes it simple to start with - you can always get more creative later when you've initially got it working).
Stop reading when you reach the section "Creating configuration files for server and clients" which is the one following.

On the server:
Copy the sample config for server, (server.ovpn), from the "sample-config" directory to "config" directory, copy the certs/keys for the server into the "config" directory.

On the client, (I'll call it 'client1' in this case to match the HOW-TO):
Copy the sample config for client, (client.ovpn), from the "sample-config" directory to "config" directory, copy the certs/keys for the client into the "config" directory.
Edit the config file and change the line:
remote my-server-1 1194       to      remote <server IP> 1194
Change the following lines to point to the generated cert/key, (client1, client2, etc, etc if you followed the HOW-TO):
cert client.crt                         to       cert client1.crt
key client.key                         to       cert client1.key

If OpenVPN GUI isn't running, run it.  Right-click on the tray icon and select Connect.

Assuming you've properly configured your firewall to allow port 1194, (default OpenVPN assigned port), free access, you should be able to ping each machine from the other.

That's it - VPN is up and running.

After having sorted out the firewall problem on the server I had OpenVPN installed and working on my XP Pro+SP3 Acer Aspire One within 5 minutes using 'client2' cert/keys I had generated.

The config files are well commented if you want to do things like: limit clients, change default port, VPN subnet, etc, and the online documentation is extremely thorough.

EDIT: PortableApps even have a portable version of OpenVPN here.  Although you'll need Admin privileges to use it.

5146

Living Room / Re: is this how you can tell if a powerstrip is bad

« Last post by 4wd on June 16, 2009, 02:24 AM »

Before you toss them out, cut the mains lead into 150mm lengths starting as close to the plug and the strip as you can so they can't be used.  This should apply to anything mains powered that you throw out.

I have learned to do this on everything I throw out, otherwise people will dig it out of the trash and try it at home.

-techidave (June 16, 2009, 02:20 AM)

Just don't do it around my area because I'll be one of those people 

5147

Living Room / Re: Looking for P2p file sharing for personal use

« Last post by 4wd on June 16, 2009, 02:16 AM »

One other suggestion that I have used and that has been mentioned here on DC before: Yadis! Backup

All you'd need to do is set it up on the machine, (assuming it's Windows), housing the central repository and then create jobs for each machine it has to sync to.  You could assign all the tasks to one group so that they can be scheduled if necessary, or run manually.

It watches the directory and as soon as a file/folder appears it will try and send them to the other machines.  If a machine is not turned on, it will queue the transfer and as soon as the path exists it will start transferring.

I know it will handle LAN addressing using '\\client1\incoming' type addresses but I'm not sure about internet but you could always tunnel it through Hamachi which will give you encryption as well.

It monitors creation and change events by default but you can also set it to monitor deletions.

It's also absurdly simple to set up tasks and assign them to a group.

As a bonus, you could also use it for one half of the PDF printing thing.  It transfers any PDF to the physical print machine as soon as it's saved into a default directory by the PDF printer.  You only need a program on the other end to then watch the directory and print any new PDFs.

5148

Living Room / Re: is this how you can tell if a powerstrip is bad

« Last post by 4wd on June 16, 2009, 01:13 AM »

@Hey 4wd!

Shoot. If I knew you were going to write the book, I wouldn't have bothered to write the book!

 

-40hz (June 15, 2009, 03:43 PM)

I wrote the abridged version  

"When in doubt - have it checked - or throw it out."

I always preferred: "One flash and you're ash."  

How about a power strip with an indicator light that flickers constantly?   I plug several others into the same outlet and they don't flicker.  So does this mean there might be something wrong internally?

-techidave (June 15, 2009, 06:27 PM)

Unless you're prepared to pull it apart and look or fix it, it could mean almost anything from:
a) the filament in the light, (assuming it is filament based), broken and making intermittent contact due to vibration;
b) the neon gas in a neon tube failing to ionise uniformly;
c) the, (omnipresent), voltage dropping resistor breaking down intermittently;
d) dry solder connections causing intermittent connection due to either heating/cooling effect as it makes contact or vibration;
e) etc, etc, etc.

As both 40Hz and I say above, it's your peace of mind at risk.

I'd pull it apart and fix it if it annoyed me enough but considering it would probably be tucked away under a desk or something I'd most likely wouldn't notice it in the first place.  Nor would it bother me if I did notice it, if it was only the light doing it - if it was all the attached devices as well then I'd pull it apart and fix it

Spend AU$4-7 versus 20 minutes of my time, I'd keep the money

Plus I don't believe in the throw-away society we seem to live in now.

"Pleased to meet you, my wife is called MakeDo, my name is Mend."  

Your "when in doubt, throw it out" advise will give me a greater peace of mind.  So far I have found only 4 out of about 20 or so that I am not comfortable with.  For a price of $10 or so apiece, its not worth worrying about.

Oh, one thing if you're throwing them out: If you don't think they're safe to use then that should apply to everyone else as far as you're concerned.

Before you toss them out, cut the mains lead into 150mm lengths starting as close to the plug and the strip as you can so they can't be used.  This should apply to anything mains powered that you throw out.

5149

Living Room / Re: is this how you can tell if a powerstrip is bad

« Last post by 4wd on June 15, 2009, 03:14 PM »

Just wanting to double check what I read on the internet over the weekend.  It said if you are using a working powerstrip that the power light doesn't work anymore, then its bad.  it could be a possible fire hazard.

Anyone have any experience or thoughts dealing with this subject?

I could not find the site I read that on today.  

-techidave (June 15, 2009, 10:04 AM)

If you're talking about a bog-standard power-strip with nothing more than a circuit breaker for output current overload protection then the options are:
a) the circuit breaker has tripped, or
b) the light, (or the circuit for it), is open-circuit.

If you're talking about a power-strip that has surge protection and the light is lit during normal, (see Note below), operation, then either:
c) same as (a) and (b) above, or
d) the surge protection circuit has failed.

The last option that affects all power-strips:
e) the mains lead is faulty.

In the case of:
(a) reset the circuit breaker - if it won't, replace the board.
(b) if it still supplies power and the breaker trips when you overload it then apart from the light not working there's no need to replace it unless having a non-working light is going to irritate you.
(c) same as (a) and (b).
(d) the only way to tell is pull it apart and look - the safe bet is to replace it.
(e) the only way to check and test is to pull it apart - replace the board.

Note: In the case of surge protected power-strips they can be wired to either indicate normal operation or failure.

I have two power-strips with lights that don't work, I still use them but only because I've pulled them apart and verified it's the light, (or circuit), that's not working.

What it comes down to is: Is it worth your peace of mind to replace them?

5150

Living Room / Re: Looking for P2p file sharing for personal use

« Last post by 4wd on June 15, 2009, 05:51 AM »

Doesn't creating/using an SVN imply a central repository?

If that's the case, isn't it easier to use rsync?

It's included with all Linux distros, here's a Windows GUI version, (there's probably other builds available).

Transfers are encrypted and only the parts of files that have changed are transferred.

Just set up a server on your central repository and poll it with a client from the other machines.

Some features of rsync include

    * can update whole directory trees and filesystems
    * optionally preserves symbolic links, hard links, file ownership, permissions, devices and times
    * requires no special privileges to install
    * internal pipelining reduces latency for multiple files
    * can use rsh, ssh or direct sockets as the transport
    * supports anonymous rsync which is ideal for mirroring

I would think the last feature is the best match for what you require since syncing is equivalent to mirroring.