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5126
On the .mpg playback, maybe players are better now at handling data DVDs but I've had players that would only play the first .mpg file in the list.

We have a better class of cheap Chinese imports here in Australia  :P

Plus I only write ISO9660/UDF format DVDs, (data and video), so the player never has to deal with foreign formats like Toilet...err...Joliet.

The only problem I've ever had is with the player not liking the DVD brand.
5127
I am a little surprised that no one has mentioned ConvertX to DVD, Video DVD Maker, or DVD Flick.

I did actually try ConvertX to DVD way back when it first came out but I found I had much more control over the output with WinAVI so I kind of stuck with that - it might of been seriously upgraded since then though so that's one reason why I didn't mention it, (the other is I forgot :) )

Arrghh!  My brain hurts!

Yes I also tried Video DVD Maker Free but again, compared to the control I had over the final product using discrete programs, (DVDLab and one of the encoders I mentioned), I never really progressed past trying it.

I also tried DVDAuthorGUI:
The gui is meant to be an easy means to create a basic DVD.

My brain must have been on holiday at that point because it drove me crazy after about 10 minutes and I gave up.  Read: I couldn't do what I wanted easily and gave up.

Addendum: BTW, I have yet to see over the years since DVD players first appeared, any DVD player that won't play a straight MPEG1 or MPEG2 file directly off of a disc.  So if you're not concerned with fancy menus or chapter points you can try just encoding your various clips to MPEG2 format using Avidemux and then just writing them to a DVD as files with .mpg extensions.
5128
Living Room / Re: Upgrading Video and Power Supply on an Dell XPS 400
« Last post by 4wd on June 18, 2009, 10:22 PM »
If you have an old or even a new standard ATX PSU laying around, you could plug it in and see if the computer will boot.  If it does, then you could see if it is the same size as the old one.  That would be a bit more work though, especially if it doesn't fit.

That's not a good idea if the manufacturer of the PC is known to use proprietary plugs/sockets, (as Dell was), you could end up with a totally dead motherboard.

Dang it!  40Hz snuck in ahead of me :)
5129
General Software Discussion / Re: Free Pdf server?
« Last post by 4wd on June 18, 2009, 09:02 PM »
You might have to set the privileges for various programs to allow them to run, I don't know since I only run in an admin account on XP32.

Also, the command line parameters for AcroBat (Reader/Full) aren't technically supported but have been reported to be stable, (I don't use it, it's too bloated and slow for my tastes) - if they don't work you can always use Auto(It/Hk) to run your PDF viewer of choice and simulate keys/buttons/etc.

Also note, FileNotify2 is now freeware as of 24-03-09 - it may have better integration into XP since it relies on .NET and it does have more options, (like integrated cron and scripting).

Bit sad but if you want to use the example MoveFTP to Copy a file:
From Google Groups:
For the copy sample use the MoveFTP template and replace
System.IO.File.Move by System.IO.File.Copy.

There is no license restriction, registered users don't receive a
registration key by the way.
I wanted to do a cheap product with no license restriction.
I wrote several shareware (url2bmp, url2jpeg, FileNotify2... 20000
download/year total) with no restriction and for 3 years I only
received $15 for all of these.
I don't think I will write other shareware.

Cheer,
Remi
5130
For consumer level authoring of DVD menus I don't think there's anything that comes close to DVDLab - it won't do encoding but they sell TMPGEnc DVD Source Creator for US$12

The DVDLab Studio version is probably the best all round version of the three DVDLab versions at US$129, I use it, (well, I actually use the Pro version because I want to mix aspect ratios on a single DVD), and considering what you can do, it is extremely simple to use.

For encoding, I've used:
(Retail versions)
MainConcept encoder - blindingly fast and good quality  (I've only used their original MPEG2 encoder which they no longer sell, having been replaced by Reference and CODEC plugins which are ridiculously expensive).  SMP capable - the more processors, the better,
CCE Trial version - good quality but nowhere near as fast as MainConcept (and the trial version is severely limited)
TMPGEnc - good quality output but very slow compared to the above two

(Freeware)
Avidemux - It'll take most files as an input and then you just select DVD from the Auto menu (although the latest build seems to be missing the script for that, 2.4.4 still has it though - they've changed the scripting slightly and haven't caught up I think) - good output and fast  - what I mostly use these days since it lets me do some editing as well.  Also SMP capable.

(AIO convert and simple menu)
WinAVI Video Converter - reasonable quality, fast and let's you merge clips and automatically create a menu with a button per clip - I used to use it a lot for MPEG4 to DVD but I now have a standalone that does MPEG4-ASP so don't bother with it.

So, after that lot what I basically use these days is:
DVDLab Pro almost exclusively if I have to author a DVD with/without menus;
Avidemux for basic editing and conversion;
A really old version of Sony Vegas 5.0 that I picked up cheap on ebay, (or a computer swap meet, I forget where), if I have to do any more involved editing with transformations or have to resync video/audio before conversion, (being able to see the waveform together with video makes it so much easier than just trying to listen).

For a cheap selection I'd probably recommend:
DVDLab Standard + TMPGEnc DVD Source Creator - It will let you do quality conversion and DVD authoring for US$111, (as long as you don't need the features of Studio or Pro, eg. if you need SubTitles you have to get at least Studio).
Avidemux - for basic editing and fast decent quality conversion of a variety of video formats.

I should mention there are freeware DVD authoring programs but I can't comment on them, as soon as I tried DVDLab I was sold :)

Oh yeah, for burning - always and only ImgBurn is what I use.
5131
Living Room / Re: Need to d'load unavailable soft - but where is safe?
« Last post by 4wd on June 18, 2009, 02:20 AM »
How about $13-00 for a replacement CD?

Here's one on ebay as long as you're in the USA.
5132
General Software Discussion / Re: Free Pdf server?
« Last post by 4wd on June 18, 2009, 01:16 AM »
Otherwise, you could set your PDF printer to always save to the same directory and then use a simple(?) AutoIt(Hk) script to watch for any new PDFs and send them onto the machine with the printer by either having the print machine watch a directory, print then delete anything that appears or by injecting into it's print queue directly.

And that is something I have already mentioned. I just am not that experienced with Ahk and do not know much about Autoit. I know python but WIn32 automation is not something I have done at all but I will check it out, so I will probably do it in Python.

You still haven't said what type of machine the Canon printer is connected to but providing it's a Windows box, here's a solution:

In the following PDFPrinter refers to the PC generating the PDFs and RealPrinter refers to the PC with the Canon printer.

Download FileNotify and install it on both machines following the directions on the page - very simple.

On the PDFPrinter run the fnAdmin.exe command, it will ask to open the FileNotify parameter file, (default FileNotify.txt in the FileNotify directory), select Open.  On the next window select Add.
Select as below filling in the appropriate paths as necessary:

PDFPrinter PC.jpg

On the RealPrinter run the fnAdmin.exe command, it will ask to open the FileNotify parameter file, (default FileNotify.txt in the FileNotify directory), select Open.  On the next window select Add.
Select as below filling in the appropriate paths as necessary:

REALPrinter PC.jpg

The PrintDelete.cmd resides in the FileNotify directory and is as follows:
rem AcroRd32.exe /t path printername drivername portname
rem Initiates Acrobat Reader, prints a file while suppressing
rem the Acrobat print dialog box, then terminates Reader.

AcroRd32.exe /t "%1" "Canon Super Printer" "Canon Super Printer Driver" "USB001"
del "%1"

NOTE: You need Acrobat Reader installed on the PC that's to do the real printing - the reason is simple, it's almost impossible to find any program that will print a PDF from the command line, (GhostScript may but I'm not going to bother installing it find out.)

Parameters for AcroRd32.exe, (or AcroBat), are as follows:
The four parameters of the /t option evaluate to:
path, printername, drivername, and portname (all strings).
path - the path and file to print.
printername - The name of your printer.
drivername - Your printer driver 's name.  Whatever appears in the Driver Used box when you view your printer 's properties.
portname - The printer 's port.  portname cannot contain any "/" characters; if it does, output is routed to the default port for that printer.

If using Acrobat,substitute Acrobat.exe in place of AcroRd32.exe in the command lines.

Last step, fire up services.msc and start the File Notification service.

The theory goes:
a) PDF is generated into the folder watched by that PC.
b) FileNotify performs the action which is to copy it to a shared directory on the other PC for printing.
c) The new PDF triggers FileNotify on the printing PC which calls PrintDelete.cmd
d) PrintDelete.cmd prints the PDF using AcroBat, (or Reader), and then deletes the file.
e) Job Done.

The theory is sound but I haven't tested it.

You, of course, have to make sure the folder is accessible for the PDF to be copied to as there's no error checking if it doesn't.
5133
Living Room / Re: Getting spam with my friends email address in the subject line
« Last post by 4wd on June 17, 2009, 10:44 PM »
Are the consequences similar, no matter where I open the potentially harmful mail from, be it webmail or Outlook? Hmm...

Yes, I would expect so - probably even easier in webmail since you're already looking at it in a browser that's designed to load images from all over the internet.

Unless, of course, the webmail service gives you some measure of control over what you choose to display while you're online.

1. Yes it's old but still valid - there is no reason to send HTML in an email.   Any sent to me usually end up deleted rather than read and I blame it on a message filter if someone asks  :P
I tried that for a while, and all it did was piss people off. Seriously.

The obvious answer to those people is, "Well, I don't know how valuable your personal data is but I actually take steps to protect mine."

Alternatively, you could scramble the <html> tags and forward it back to them asking where in the load of rubbish is the pertinent information.

For a while I actually toyed with the idea of creating a filter that auto-responded with that website before deleting the offending message.
Now-a-days people tend to know me better and don't send me things I have no intention of looking at, (like bl**dy PowerPoint attachments for stupid jokes), because they know it'll just get deleted.

it's old but still valid - there is no reason to send HTML in an email.

is anyone aware of a reason why HTML mail persists?

That's easy, have a look at any PC running Windows - OE, (and probably Outlook), and Thunderbird, (IIRC, it's been awhile since I last installed let alone configured it), both default to HTML email and replying to email in the format it was sent.

I don't know about any other email clients but since you're talking about probably the most used one, (OE), it comes back to being "people don't know any better."

They see the pretty emails they can send but they don't see all the junk that's sent to do it, neither are they aware of the risk involved in receiving the damn things.
5134
Living Room / Re: Getting spam with my friends email address in the subject line
« Last post by 4wd on June 17, 2009, 04:17 PM »
They could have got your friend's email address from virtually anywhere.

eg.
1) Your friend used it to register at a site that was hacked, has a less than 'nice' policy regarding sharing of personal info, or was of a 'questionable' nature.
2) Your friend responded to a spam email by clicking a link in it which confirmed a working email address.
3) A friend of a friend of your friend had their PC infected with virus that sent emails to everyone in their email addressbook and so propagated a list of working email addresses.
4) Spammers bulk email millions of random addresses, any that aren't bounced are classed as valid, (one problem I wish GMail would fix instead of just forwarding to the closest sound-alike).
5) ad infinitum.

I'm hesitant to open it, just to see what it says.

Never, ever open a suspected spam email unless you have your email client properly configured.

By properly, IMHO, at the very least only configured to send/display all messages as plain text, (see here1), and to never send a receipt saying it's been received or read.

1. Yes it's old but still valid - there is no reason to send HTML in an email.   Any sent to me usually end up deleted rather than read and I blame it on a message filter if someone asks  :P
5135
Ahh .. good to know on WinDirStat. Loading it at work now.
-Steven Avery (June 17, 2009, 09:43 AM)

Dang it!  Lashiec beat me with WinDirStat, that was my next suggestion.

However, I will add it is portable - just extract it from the installer, (or install, copy, uninstall), and you're good to go.
5136
Disk Analyzer - small, standalone with a boring Win95 look.

Capture-1.jpg

However, it does work.  Give it a drive to look at and when it's finished you can sort by Type which will give you the total space taken up by various extensions.

It keeps the results from previous analysis, so you can choose one and see how it's changed from a current one.

You can print the results, graph the results, it's portable and it's free.......what's not to like?

Also, with the saving of previous analysis thing, you can just stick it on a flash drive, plug it into a PC, select a prior job and do an update - no need to install on all PCs.

And I guess if you map network drives you might also be able to use it on them, haven't tried it though (I don't do mapping :) ).
5137
Living Room / Re: Looking for P2p file sharing for personal use
« Last post by 4wd on June 16, 2009, 11:42 PM »
4wd, very tight stuff man, thank you I will definetely go through this. You had done the hard work!!!

No problem, make sure you're forwarding the port, (default 1194), you use through any routers and firewalls otherwise you'll be going :wallbash: like I was.

Attached is the server/client configs/certs/keys in the directory structure they should appear in, in case I wasn't clear - I think the certs/keys are machine specific and are in a database on the key signing PC, (my XP machine in this case), so they might or might not work as is.

You can compare the configs to the original samples using WinMerge, Beyond Compare, etc to see what changes were necessary.
5138
Living Room / Re: Looking for P2p file sharing for personal use
« Last post by 4wd on June 16, 2009, 11:11 PM »
Of the 5 or so times that I tried to get VPN working over the years I found that, (for XP anyway), using MS's VPN was an absolute PITA to get working and in the end I gave up trying to use it, (this was over both internet and even LAN where I had total control over the machines).

OTOH, OpenVPN was rather easier and I had a connection working in under an hour with a friend over the internet even though I'd never used it before.

I haven't had a VPN running for a while, no longer had a need and Hamachi is quicker although it unfortunately relies on you having a internet connection and the arbitration servers being accessible.

But, while I was typing this reply I decided to try and setup OpenVPN again from my XP Pro-SP3 PC to a Win7 x86 PC I just built for someone and it still took under an hour to get the two machines connected in a server->multiple client configuration, (as opposed to ad-hoc type).

10 minutes to download and install on both machines, (I had to make a cuppa too).
15 minutes reading the HOW-TO and generating the server/client certificates/keys, editing the config to use them and copying them to the respective places.
30-40 minutes trying to work out why they couldn't ping each other.....damn firewall, Outpost can be too protective sometimes  :-[

For Vista or Win7 use the latest 2.1rc, setting privileges as mentioned here.
For XP I just used the current 2.09 release build.

The XP machine was to be the server, the Win7 a client - follow the instructions here for generating certificates/keys for the server and each client using the example names for the server/clients they give, (it makes it simple to start with - you can always get more creative later when you've initially got it working).
Stop reading when you reach the section "Creating configuration files for server and clients" which is the one following.

On the server:
Copy the sample config for server, (server.ovpn), from the "sample-config" directory to "config" directory, copy the certs/keys for the server into the "config" directory.

On the client, (I'll call it 'client1' in this case to match the HOW-TO):
Copy the sample config for client, (client.ovpn), from the "sample-config" directory to "config" directory, copy the certs/keys for the client into the "config" directory.
Edit the config file and change the line:
remote my-server-1 1194       to      remote <server IP> 1194
Change the following lines to point to the generated cert/key, (client1, client2, etc, etc if you followed the HOW-TO):
cert client.crt                         to       cert client1.crt
key client.key                         to       cert client1.key

If OpenVPN GUI isn't running, run it.  Right-click on the tray icon and select Connect.

Assuming you've properly configured your firewall to allow port 1194, (default OpenVPN assigned port), free access, you should be able to ping each machine from the other.

That's it - VPN is up and running.

After having sorted out the firewall problem on the server I had OpenVPN installed and working on my XP Pro+SP3 Acer Aspire One within 5 minutes using 'client2' cert/keys I had generated.

The config files are well commented if you want to do things like: limit clients, change default port, VPN subnet, etc, and the online documentation is extremely thorough.

EDIT: PortableApps even have a portable version of OpenVPN here.  Although you'll need Admin privileges to use it.
5139
Living Room / Re: is this how you can tell if a powerstrip is bad
« Last post by 4wd on June 16, 2009, 02:24 AM »
Before you toss them out, cut the mains lead into 150mm lengths starting as close to the plug and the strip as you can so they can't be used.  This should apply to anything mains powered that you throw out.

I have learned to do this on everything I throw out, otherwise people will dig it out of the trash and try it at home.

Just don't do it around my area because I'll be one of those people  ;D
5140
Living Room / Re: Looking for P2p file sharing for personal use
« Last post by 4wd on June 16, 2009, 02:16 AM »
One other suggestion that I have used and that has been mentioned here on DC before: Yadis! Backup

All you'd need to do is set it up on the machine, (assuming it's Windows), housing the central repository and then create jobs for each machine it has to sync to.  You could assign all the tasks to one group so that they can be scheduled if necessary, or run manually.

It watches the directory and as soon as a file/folder appears it will try and send them to the other machines.  If a machine is not turned on, it will queue the transfer and as soon as the path exists it will start transferring.

I know it will handle LAN addressing using '\\client1\incoming' type addresses but I'm not sure about internet but you could always tunnel it through Hamachi which will give you encryption as well.

It monitors creation and change events by default but you can also set it to monitor deletions.

It's also absurdly simple to set up tasks and assign them to a group.

As a bonus, you could also use it for one half of the PDF printing thing.  It transfers any PDF to the physical print machine as soon as it's saved into a default directory by the PDF printer.  You only need a program on the other end to then watch the directory and print any new PDFs.
5141
Living Room / Re: is this how you can tell if a powerstrip is bad
« Last post by 4wd on June 16, 2009, 01:13 AM »
@Hey 4wd!

Shoot. If I knew you were going to write the book, I wouldn't have bothered to write the book! ;D ;D ;D

 :Thmbsup:

I wrote the abridged version  :P

"When in doubt - have it checked - or throw it out."

I always preferred: "One flash and you're ash."  ;D

How about a power strip with an indicator light that flickers constantly?   I plug several others into the same outlet and they don't flicker.  So does this mean there might be something wrong internally?

Unless you're prepared to pull it apart and look or fix it, it could mean almost anything from:
a) the filament in the light, (assuming it is filament based), broken and making intermittent contact due to vibration;
b) the neon gas in a neon tube failing to ionise uniformly;
c) the, (omnipresent), voltage dropping resistor breaking down intermittently;
d) dry solder connections causing intermittent connection due to either heating/cooling effect as it makes contact or vibration;
e) etc, etc, etc.

As both 40Hz and I say above, it's your peace of mind at risk.

I'd pull it apart and fix it if it annoyed me enough but considering it would probably be tucked away under a desk or something I'd most likely wouldn't notice it in the first place.  Nor would it bother me if I did notice it, if it was only the light doing it - if it was all the attached devices as well then I'd pull it apart and fix it :)

Spend AU$4-7 versus 20 minutes of my time, I'd keep the money :P

Plus I don't believe in the throw-away society we seem to live in now.

"Pleased to meet you, my wife is called MakeDo, my name is Mend."   :D

Your "when in doubt, throw it out" advise will give me a greater peace of mind.  So far I have found only 4 out of about 20 or so that I am not comfortable with.  For a price of $10 or so apiece, its not worth worrying about.

Oh, one thing if you're throwing them out: If you don't think they're safe to use then that should apply to everyone else as far as you're concerned.

Before you toss them out, cut the mains lead into 150mm lengths starting as close to the plug and the strip as you can so they can't be used.  This should apply to anything mains powered that you throw out.
5142
Living Room / Re: is this how you can tell if a powerstrip is bad
« Last post by 4wd on June 15, 2009, 03:14 PM »
Just wanting to double check what I read on the internet over the weekend.  It said if you are using a working powerstrip that the power light doesn't work anymore, then its bad.  it could be a possible fire hazard.

Anyone have any experience or thoughts dealing with this subject?

I could not find the site I read that on today.   :(

If you're talking about a bog-standard power-strip with nothing more than a circuit breaker for output current overload protection then the options are:
a) the circuit breaker has tripped, or
b) the light, (or the circuit for it), is open-circuit.

If you're talking about a power-strip that has surge protection and the light is lit during normal, (see Note below), operation, then either:
c) same as (a) and (b) above, or
d) the surge protection circuit has failed.

The last option that affects all power-strips:
e) the mains lead is faulty.

In the case of:
(a) reset the circuit breaker - if it won't, replace the board.
(b) if it still supplies power and the breaker trips when you overload it then apart from the light not working there's no need to replace it unless having a non-working light is going to irritate you.
(c) same as (a) and (b).
(d) the only way to tell is pull it apart and look - the safe bet is to replace it.
(e) the only way to check and test is to pull it apart - replace the board.

Note: In the case of surge protected power-strips they can be wired to either indicate normal operation or failure.

I have two power-strips with lights that don't work, I still use them but only because I've pulled them apart and verified it's the light, (or circuit), that's not working.

What it comes down to is: Is it worth your peace of mind to replace them?
5143
Living Room / Re: Looking for P2p file sharing for personal use
« Last post by 4wd on June 15, 2009, 05:51 AM »
Doesn't creating/using an SVN imply a central repository?

If that's the case, isn't it easier to use rsync?

It's included with all Linux distros, here's a Windows GUI version, (there's probably other builds available).

Transfers are encrypted and only the parts of files that have changed are transferred.

Just set up a server on your central repository and poll it with a client from the other machines.

Some features of rsync include

    * can update whole directory trees and filesystems
    * optionally preserves symbolic links, hard links, file ownership, permissions, devices and times
    * requires no special privileges to install
    * internal pipelining reduces latency for multiple files
    * can use rsh, ssh or direct sockets as the transport
    * supports anonymous rsync which is ideal for mirroring

I would think the last feature is the best match for what you require since syncing is equivalent to mirroring.
5144
So either way, it doesn't much help you. In fact, having TrueCrypt on your machine might sway the authorities to give you even less slack than they might have. Especially since your behavior could be interpreted as "going to extraordinary lengths" and/or "using sophisticated means" to hide something on your hard drive.

It likely wouldn't matter even if TrueCrypt wasn't apparently installed since you can run TCHunt over a drive to find likely TC containers.

And I'm sure any Federal Authorities would have even better versions of similar software.
5145
General Software Discussion / Re: Free Pdf server?
« Last post by 4wd on June 14, 2009, 09:29 PM »
I'm still not sure whether the printer you want to print to is connected to a Win or Linux machine but if you can see the printer as, eg. 'Canon BJ200 on Kartal6' then you should be able to pool the printers.

Otherwise, you could set your PDF printer to always save to the same directory and then use a simple(?) AutoIt(Hk) script to watch for any new PDFs and send them onto the machine with the printer by either having the print machine watch a directory, print then delete anything that appears or by injecting into it's print queue directly.
5146
General Software Discussion / Re: Free Pdf server?
« Last post by 4wd on June 14, 2009, 08:49 PM »
I need a simple free pdf server to print stuff from my xp64. I was using pdfcreator in the past but because of the author`s sneaky embedding of toolsbars, I have stopped using it. Are there any other alternatives out there? Basically what I need is pdf printer that can print to another real printer after saving it as pdf. No online related solutions please.

So is printing to two printers simultaneously OK or does it have to go to the PDF printer and then to a real printer, (not that there's any difference if there's no interaction) ?

From TechNet via VBForums:
To set up a printer to print to multiple devices

1. Open Printers and Faxes.

2. Right-click the printer you are using, and then click Properties.

3. On the Ports tab, select the Enable printer pooling check box.

4. Click each port where the printers you want to pool are connected.

Notes
• To open Printers and Faxes, click Start, and then click Printers and Faxes.
• With printer pooling, the printers must be the same type of printer using the same printer driver.
• The previous procedure assumes the printers you want to pool are already in the Printers and Faxes folder.
5147
Living Room / Re: IE to be removed from Windows 7 in EU
« Last post by 4wd on June 12, 2009, 11:50 PM »
How does one get on the internet to download an alternate browser if there is no browser installed with the OS?

Go to a newsagent and grab any PC magazine with a cover disc?
Include a magazine with cover disc with all Windows install discs?

They should install the fastest browser available so that people can download what they want: Off By One, Lynx or Links.
5148
A former co-worker thought he'd optimize his workstation using Black Viper's guide. He optimized his way into not being able to see any of the file servers or be able to print to any of the network printers. That was a fun day...

He obviously missed the bit that says 'YMMV' and the other disclaimers he puts throughout any of his pages regarding changes to service status.

And yet another example of where pro-active IT support is better, where a simple reboot would have fixed the problem :)
5149
The first thing I would do is disable the router WiFi during all testing since that will eliminate any outside possibilities and immediately prove it into the WiFi or cable side.

Is the Win7 PC connected via WiFi or cable?  If WiFi, connect via cable to test.

And since you only listed four units that are static IP, change them all to DHCP and see if the problem still exists.

If it's gone, then change half of them back to static, see if still happens and so on, until they're all back on static.

Had to do a right-click on the IP in SoftPerfect to get it to tell me the MAC address.

Set Options->Program Options->Additional->Resolve MAC address, IIRC, to have it show up normally during a scan.

Does a PC have a multiple NIC that's been assigned an IP somehow?

I still recommend the easiest way to find the problem is to disable WiFi and unplug cables until the problem goes.
5150
Only for Windows Services, there can be only one: Black Viper
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