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5076
Genetica 3.6 Basic alone retails for $150. So, yeah, that's a really nice price!
5077
General Software Discussion / Re: How necessary is the UAC in Windows 7?
« Last post by Deozaan on July 24, 2011, 05:03 PM »
EDIT2: Aha! I didn't notice that there were 2 pages to this thread. That explains why I didn't see Carol's post. :-[

 . . . gotta find another excuse there Deo :p - you were answering my post [ I think :-[ ] which was already on page #2 :D

Actually I was just providing the general info to Cyberdiva, who at the beginning (first page) of the thread didn't seem to understand why UAC would prompt her for admin privileges (or why it would be necessary to use the "Always run as Administrator" option) when she was already using an Administrator account.

But it looks like you also just happened to be wondering the same thing. :Thmbsup:
5078
General Software Discussion / Re: Google+
« Last post by Deozaan on July 24, 2011, 04:34 PM »
For those of you who don't have confidence in your vanity gplus.to URL, here's how to make your own:

http://www.cutemachi...a-google-vanity-url/

Now I have mine that I'm in control of: http://deozaan.com/+
5079
General Software Discussion / Re: Chromium 14.0.832.0 Build 93800
« Last post by Deozaan on July 23, 2011, 04:25 PM »
Speed Dial was fun but it just bogs an otherwise screaming fast browser!

You know that Chrome has it's own Speed-Dial-like New Tab page that you can set as your home page?
5080
Seems too good to be true. So I think it probably is. . . :-\
5081
General Software Discussion / Re: How necessary is the UAC in Windows 7?
« Last post by Deozaan on July 23, 2011, 04:11 PM »
I guess you already figured this out, but I felt it could use repeating:

Just because your account is an administrator account doesn't mean every program you run is run with Administrator privileges.

For the problematic applications, you should still go into the compatibility settings and check the "Run this program as an Administrator" option. Then it will always give you a UAC prompt when it first runs, but shouldn't have any problems doing what it needs to do after that.

EDIT: I'm not sure how it took me ~15 minutes to write this tiny post, but Carol's post just above mine wasn't here before I wrote this. Naturally she said exactly what I was trying to say, but was more succinct. :Thmbsup:

EDIT2: Aha! I didn't notice that there were 2 pages to this thread. That explains why I didn't see Carol's post. :-[
5082
Living Room / Re: Yet Another Help-Me-Build-a-New-Computer Thread
« Last post by Deozaan on July 23, 2011, 03:59 PM »
Handle is extraneous in my view, but you may like the aesthetic, heh.

Didn't see this before.  The handle actually isn't extraneous in my experience.  It is *very* well built, and the handles have a metal core, even for being plastic.  It's come in really handy (no pun intended), and I'd not even considered that factor when I purchased it.  It's a very good case for the price point.

Yeah, I had similar thoughts with the Nintendo GameCube'sw handle. At first I thought it was kind of weird and unnecessary. But after owning it and using it I thought it was a really great and useful feature.


So when I saw the PC case with the handle I was pretty sure I'd really like it, even if I didn't move my PC as much as I moved my GameCube around.


Is the case noisy or quiet or what?

Most of the time, I don't even hear the computer running.  I'm not sure if that's a factor of the case or not, but I hear my other computer running all the time.

Thanks. I was a bit concerned about the noise levels of the case. From the sounds of it I'll be really happy with my choice. :Thmbsup:
5083
Living Room / Re: Are we allowed to avoid the "My Docs" mess in Win7?
« Last post by Deozaan on July 23, 2011, 03:48 PM »
Windows 7 actually doesn't use the "My " in the folder names anymore. But that isn't obvious because it still displays it.

But yeah, you can easily move the folders anywhere else. Here's mine:

My Docs Location.png

So basically I moved them all to D:\

D:\Documents = My Documents
D:\Music = My Music
D:\Videos = My Videos

But here's the tricky part: As I said, Windows 7 still (sometimes) displays them as "My Documents," "My Music," etc. so it can be difficult knowing where to find them in an alphabetical list of folders. Is it D for Documents or is it M for My?

EDIT: Oops I think I misunderstood what you were asking. Anything that automatically creates a directory in your "My Documents" directory will save it to the newly configured location, unless the path was hardcoded in the app which is just plain bad programming practices.

I'm not sure how or if you can prevent a (e.g.) "My Games" folder from being created in your Documents folder, but one thing you could do is make a symlink/junction for Documents/My Games to point to another directory of your choosing.
5084
Living Room / Re: Yet Another Help-Me-Build-a-New-Computer Thread
« Last post by Deozaan on July 23, 2011, 03:34 PM »
The only trouble with on-board video is that it's often impossible to get a multi-monitor setup.

[snip]
It all depends on the monitors used :tellme:

I have a pretty nice 25.5" 16:10 monitor with HDMI, DVI, VGA, and even component inputs. I love it and would like another but sadly this model has been discontinued.

My secondary monitor is a 19" no-name brand (DCLCD) with only a single VGA input. Not that great, but I got it nearly 10 years ago and it still works. I wish I could say the same about the more expensive 19" ViewSonic LCD monitor I bought about 6 years ago.

Either way, if the onboard video doesn't support multiple monitors, then I can make due with just my nice one for a while or plug in my GeForce 8600 GTS and use that in the meantime.

I do intend on getting a discrete GPU eventually, but it was really stretching my budget to get one now. So maybe by Christmas I can save up for (most of) the other parts I wanted.

On another note, good choice with the case - I've been looking at getting the Scout for a while.  My friend has one, the LEDs are quite subdued and can all be turned off via one switch on the top panel.
The only bad thing I'd have to say about it is that the carry handle is not designed for human hands - its cross-section is equivalent to a piece steel rectangular tube and the corners dig into your hand.  You'll find it a lot more comfortable to wrap a bit a high-density foam, (1/8" thick), around it as I did with my friends.  But if you don't envision carrying it around, or only infrequently, then no problem.

I was a little worried about the case and how noisy it is. Can you tell me if it was especially noisy or quiet? Or was it just average? I guess that may depend on what other parts your friend has inside, but I'd still like to know.

Keep us posted and maybe put up a picture or two? :Thmbsup:

Will do. :)
5085
Living Room / Re: Yet Another Help-Me-Build-a-New-Computer Thread
« Last post by Deozaan on July 23, 2011, 06:08 AM »
Wait.....you're saying that the Intel integrated GPU is an upgrade from your current GPU?

Yes, I think so. As I understand it, the CPU-integrated-GPU on these new 2nd Gen Core i5/7s are equivalent to Radeon HD 3000 series. Or am I misunderstanding that?

In either case, I've got a GeForce 8600 GTS. It's a decent card, not nearly as old as the machine itself since the original GPU melted and this was the replacement, but it is getting long in the tooth.
5086
Living Room / Re: Yet Another Help-Me-Build-a-New-Computer Thread
« Last post by Deozaan on July 23, 2011, 01:28 AM »
Okay I just placed the order:

Case: $90 for COOLER MASTER Storm Scout SGC-2000-KKN1-GP.
PSU: $120 for LEPA G500-MA 500W 80 PLUS Gold Certified Modular.
MOBO: $155 for MSI Z68A-GD55 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX.
CPU: $315 for Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core.
RAM: $61 for CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800).

With a $25 NewEgg gift card, that came to a total of about $716 (and $50 of that will be "refunded" with mail-in-rebates).

Yep, that's right. No GPU. After looking into the Z68 mobo and realizing that the CPU-integrated-GPU would be an upgrade from my current GPU, and also that I can use my current GPU in the new system, I decided to forego a new, expensive GPU for now.

This will give me a desperately needed new PC soon while still allowing me to save up for and decide on other important parts like the discrete GPU (in my opinion, the jury is still out on ATI vs nVidia), SSD, HDD(s), Optical drive, WiFi adapter, media card reader, UPS, more ram, HDD toaster dock, 70" HDTV, Ferrari, 60k ft2 mansion, and private jet.

Thanks to everyone for their advice, feedback and other contributions so far. I'll probably keep this thread going a bit with updates on how the initial build runs as well as ask more questions etc. once I am prepared to make the next order.
5087
Living Room / Re: Yet Another Help-Me-Build-a-New-Computer Thread
« Last post by Deozaan on July 22, 2011, 11:30 PM »
Thanks for the info about PSUs, steeladept. Very useful indeed. I sure hope the 500w LEPA provides enough continuous power for my build. I really don't know and am just going by what other people are telling me. I know the GPU alone says I should have at least a 450w PSU, but maybe that's more because of the misleading marketing you talked about.

As for motherboard, I'd go for a chipset that lets you utilize the CPU-integrated GPU. "What, why?! I'm buying a powerful discrete GPU!", you say. Yes, you are, and that's what you'll be running your games off. But the integrated GPU can be used for GP-GPU purposes - right now there isn't a lot of uses (mainly video and audio transcoding), but there's a lot of focus on heterogenous computing right now, so this is something we'll likely see increasing in the future.

I just found out about the Intel Z68 motherboards. They let you overclock as well as allow you to take advantage of the CPU-integrated GPU.

This one looks like it has all the same features as the P67 I was considering but additionally has the CPU-integrated-GPU features:

MSI Z68A-GD55 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX
5088
Living Room / Re: Yet Another Help-Me-Build-a-New-Computer Thread
« Last post by Deozaan on July 22, 2011, 10:25 PM »
If getting the i7 means waiting longer I'd say get the i5 and the new system now. That's definitely one thing I've found is that waiting seldom pays off, hehe. You can always wait a bit more to afford something good (wait even longer and you can get an SSD *and* the i7! ;) ). If your current system isn't enjoyable to use anymore then I think it's good to upgrade ASAP. Of course it also depends on how much longer it would take you to save for the i7 - a week, 3 weeks, a couple months?

- Oshyan

I could probably get the i7 (since I'm only getting 8GB of RAM) and barely be able to afford it right now. But it would mean waiting longer to be able to save up for the other stuff I want like the SSD, 2 TB HDD(s), UPS, aftermarket cooler, optical drive, WiFi Adapter, 8GB ram more, etc.

Still, I think I'd have a pretty sweet system and it would make the time I spent saving up for those things much easier to live through than with this piece of smurf PC that is barely running now.
5089
Living Room / Re: Yet Another Help-Me-Build-a-New-Computer Thread
« Last post by Deozaan on July 22, 2011, 09:58 PM »
Argh I can't decide! I'm getting really antsy to buy the system because my current PC is seriously not doing very well. It sometimes becomes non-responsive for up to a few minutes while it does... something I have no idea what! So I'm really chomping at the bit wanting to order this thing.

But I keep thinking thoughts like: $95 more for the i7 seems like a lot now, but if I really intend this to be a 5+ year system, then divided over 60 months (5 years) it comes to just under $1.60 more per month (or less for longer periods of time) for a more powerful processor. A more powerful processor will probably keep me satisfied longer and could extend the goal of 5 years out to 6 or 7 years. Is the hyper-threading, larger L3 cache, and a couple hundred Mhz worth $95 to me? Probably not. Is it worth $1.60 a month? Hmm, could be. So if I'm just patient enough and wait a little while longer to save up a little more money then I can afford the more expensive and powerful parts, which would keep me satisfied and remain useful longer, which would delay the need/desire for a new computer even longer.

But I also really have a pressing need for a new computer very soon. Hmm... What to do?
5090
Living Room / Re: Yet Another Help-Me-Build-a-New-Computer Thread
« Last post by Deozaan on July 22, 2011, 07:01 PM »
I don't really do big time hard to do 3D rendering stuff. I play around with Blender from time to time and would like to get into (lowpoly) modeling. So I don't think I'll be too worried about the extra power an i7 could have on that.

I do tend to do quite a bit of multitasking (i.e. opening a bunch of different programs at once) so that might affect performance, but I'm having a hard time comprehending if I'll be able to notice the difference between 4-cores and 4-cores with HT coming from a single core machine. Don't get me wrong, I would really like to have that i7, but I'm still not sure the extra performance is worth the extra price. And if I need more performance I can always overclock the 2500K.

1. I have this case, and it's awesome!  It's to a large extent plastic, but it doesn't have that plasticy feel; it's very solid, while not being as heavy as some other cases.  The lights are great(they aren't really christmas lighty, and can be turned off), and it was very easy to work on.

Is the case noisy or quiet or what?
5091
Living Room / Re: Yet Another Help-Me-Build-a-New-Computer Thread
« Last post by Deozaan on July 22, 2011, 06:02 PM »
If I was going for the Core i7 2600 then the 2600K is only $15 more and I would probably just go for the 2600K.

But the upgrade from the Core i5 2500K to the Core i7 2600K is $95.

(And for the record, the i7 2600(K) processors appear to be dual-channel memory, since my mobo I have selected for the i5 also supports the i7)

However, if I cut my RAM in half down to just 8 GB, then that saves me about $65, which makes the Core i7 2600K "only $30 more" than what I was planning.

Also, I just remembered that I have $25 of NewEgg gift card. So that makes the Core i7 2600K almost exactly as much as I was planning to spend.

On the other hand, I could still save the $95 by sticking with the i5 and that would be about enough to buy an SSD/HHD or UPS or something else in the near future.

Decisions, decisions. . .

As for GPU. I have noticed that a lot of games I play show the nVidia/PhysX logo. On the other hand, it is nice to hear from wraith808 that the card I've pretty much settled on runs well in a similar setup. I like the card's output options (dual DVI, HDMI, and DisplayPort). It also has Eyefinity, which as I understand means it can support as many monitors/displays as it has outputs (so 4 monitors/displays in this case). I only have 2 monitors but the idea of getting a 3rd sometime down the road and being able to use all 3 of them is attractive.
5092
Living Room / Re: Yet Another Help-Me-Build-a-New-Computer Thread
« Last post by Deozaan on July 22, 2011, 03:52 PM »
Can anyone who knows for sure answer this question please?

Will a GPU that is PCIe 2.1 work on a Mobo with specifications that only mention having a PCIe 2.0 slot?

Here's the GPU I've been considering: ASUS EAH6850 Radeon HD 6850 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 but my mobo only mentions having PCIe 2.0. . .

It appears as though NONE of the motherboards on NewEgg mention PCIe 2.1 specifically, so I would think they are compatible, but I'd feel a lot better if someone who knows for sure could verify it.
5093
Living Room / Re: Yet Another Help-Me-Build-a-New-Computer Thread
« Last post by Deozaan on July 22, 2011, 12:14 AM »
Okay, I think I've pretty much decided on everything I'm going to get for now.

Case: $90 for COOLER MASTER Storm Scout SGC-2000-KKN1-GP.
PSU: $120 for LEPA G500-MA 500W 80 PLUS Gold Certified Modular.
MOBO: $120 for MSI P67A-G45 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX.
CPU: $220 for Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core.
GPU: $170 for ASUS EAH6850 DC/2DIS/1GD5/V2 Radeon HD 6850 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16.
RAM: $130 for Kingston HyperX 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)x2 (4x4GB = 16GB RAM).

That totals $850, which is where the build starts hitting the upper limits of my budget, going from being able to (barely, maybe, possibly) buy it now or having to wait a few months longer to save up more for it. But there's also $70 of mail-in-rebates which will (eventually) bring it down to $780. And maybe by the time I get those rebates back, I'll have saved up enough to buy some of the other things I had to leave out (like an aftermarket cooler, optical drive, SSD, HDD(s) and WiFi adapter).

I'm in dire need of a new PC soon, so I'm ready to order this ASAP. I think I'll let this thread continue over the weekend to give time for you folks to give me more feedback and prevent me from unknowingly buying the wrong thing(s). Then probably on Monday I'll order it sometime.

So check out my list of components and let me know what you think.
5094
Living Room / Re: Yet Another Help-Me-Build-a-New-Computer Thread
« Last post by Deozaan on July 21, 2011, 10:36 PM »
Will a GPU that is PCIe 2.1 work on a Mobo with specifications that only mention having a PCIe 2.0 slot?

Here's the GPU I've been considering: ASUS EAH6850 Radeon HD 6850 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 but my mobo only mentions having PCIe 2.0. . .

It appears as though NONE of the motherboards on NewEgg mention PCIe 2.1 specifically, so I would think they are compatible, but I'd feel a lot better if someone who knows for sure could verify it.
5095
Living Room / Re: Yet Another Help-Me-Build-a-New-Computer Thread
« Last post by Deozaan on July 21, 2011, 09:18 PM »
Ok so far I've had several different recommendations for RAM, and no two people have recommended the same brand. In a way that's confusing because I'm trying to find a known good brand. In another sense that's comforting because it seems as though there are several reliable, high quality brands if there are so many different brands being recommended.

As for RAM speeds, the motherboard I'm planning on getting can handle speeds of DDR3 1066/1333/1600*/1866*/2133*(OC). And since the 1600 is only $10-$20 more than the 1333 I was looking at previously, I think I'll go with that unless someone can give me a really good reason to go with the 1866 (or the 1333 I guess). But I still need to decide on which brand. So far I've had Crucial, Mushkin, and Kingston highly recommended.

RAM:
Buy as much as the motherboard can address.

Are you suggesting I get 32 GB of RAM? That's... a lot. I don't think I'd ever regret having so much RAM, but I'm not sure I'd really put that much to use, so I am not sure it would be a good way to spend money. Hmm... It appears as though NewEgg doesn't even offer 8 GB 1600Mhz sticks and the 8GB 1333 Mhz sticks cost more than four 4 GB 1600 sticks combined. So no thanks. It's definitely not cost effective to get that much RAM in this machine.

PSU:
You will want a silent one with a big fan, and about 450 - 500 watt, 80-plus Gold, from a brand like Cooler Master, be Quiet or Antec. It has to last for probably 4 or 5 years (looking at your current system), and you could spend the extra $20 you can save on the mainboard.
A modular PSU usually means it has connectors on the PSU casing and you just mount the cables you need. Connectors make it extra expensive, and introduce an extra possible point of failure, so unless the looks of the inside of the case is really important, you won't need a modular PSU.

Thanks for the info on modular. I don't care what it looks like inside, so I'll go without modular. As for the rating, any particular reason why it's important to get the 80-PLUS Gold certified power supply? Is it that much higher quality/better than a "standard" 80-PLUS certified PSU? I'm also concerned about the wattage. I know I've been reassured multiple times by f0dder in other threads that a 450-500 watt PSU should be plenty and that the most important thing is more about voltage stability or something similar to that, but it's hard to get over the feeling that 500 watts is a small amount when they're selling 1,000+ watt PSUs for the gamer market.

Looking into it now, it appears as though all the 80-PLUS Gold PSUs that NewEgg sells of Cooler Master and Antec brand are at least 750 watts and modular. And about $200 (or more). Yikes! I've never even heard of Be Quiet brand. Is the 80-PLUS Gold really worth it, and what about all that wattage? Funny how high that seems now when the price is also high. :D

How about this Kingwin 550w 80-PLUS Platinum PSU? It's also modular, but it's got wattage closer to what I'd need and it's platinum! (and cheaper than the 750+w PSUs). Kingwin also has a 550w 80-PLUS Gold PSU for $100. But I've never heard of that brand before so ... I dunno.

MISC:
Harddisk(s): Be sure to either pick a 7200 rpm disk or a SSD for the boot-drive. If having a SSD, then get at least a 7200 rpm model for your applications-disk [D:], and if storing large amounts of data, like Virtual PC images or photo's, that could go on an energy saving 5400/5900 rpm disk [E:]
SSD: 64 GB is rather small for installing WIndows 7 and some applications, so 120 GB or bigger would definitely be preferable, but the cost will be the limiting factor.

Yeah, ideally I'd like an SSD for the OS. I already use a system similar to what I'd need for an OS SSD where I pretty much only have the OS on an 80 GB HDD and install/store most everything else on other drives. My current PC is such a piece of smurf that I can't tell how much space is free on my C drive. Right-clicking and selecting Properties doesn't bring up the drive's properties. And attempting to view the general status of my HDDs from "Computer" (aka "My Computer") in Windows Explorer doesn't show anything at all. That's how seriously I need a new PC right now. . .

Anyway, I think I probably could get by on Windows 7 with a 64GB SSD but I would feel a lot better with 80 or 128 GB OS drive.

I also have 3 or 4 or 5 500 GB HDDs (7200 RPM each) so while it would be nice to consolidate all my data onto a single 2 TB drive, this is another case where I can just use what I have for now and then maybe in a couple more months buy the new HDD.

Sound: Ok. Speakers/Headset?
Keyboard/Mouse: If they're not worn out then just re-use that, and replace when worn out or defective.
DVD: Ok if it's SATA, if not, just spend the extra $30 for a DVD-burner or some more for a BD-reader/DVD-burner combo drive. BD-burners are still quite expensive, and DVD's can hold enough photo's for archiving. Backups either go on external harddisks, 'the cloud' or tape.
WiFi: Sure you don't want wired network? Usually the ping-delays are lower and transport speed higher when playing on-line games.

Sound: I already have speakers and (what I think is) a nice USB headset.
Keyboard/Mouse: I just bought new keyboard and mouse this year and I love them.
Optical: Good point on the DVD. I think all 3 of mine are IDE. I also have an external USB DVD drive so maybe I can just use that if/when I use/need optical media (which isn't often). Or, yeah, it's not that expensive to get a BD/DVD combo these days. So this one may depend on the budget.
WiFi: I currently have my PC connected via LAN (wired) but I'd like the WiFi "just in case" I move somewhere where the modem/router doesn't have proximity to where my "office" is. That's why this is another thing that can probably wait until I need it. I don't think it costs much for a standard Wireless N adapter but it's also not a necessity at this point.

After-market CPU-coolers: If over-clocking: When going for <= 5% extra speed, the standard Intel coolers are usually fine, at least when mounted properly (and on i5/i7 processors). When going for 5 - 10% get a big but silent cooler. When aiming beyond 10%, get a water-cooled setup, and also cool the GPU with it.

I'm really not sure how much overclocking I'm going to be doing. I've never done it before and I've never really been that interested in it. But since I can buy a processor that was made to be overclocked, why not take advantage of it? In that regard I doubt I'll be doing anything that would require liquid cooling, but maybe I'll be going for the 5-10% range. Any suggestions on reliable and quiet aftermarket CPU coolers?

Thanks for the feedback, everyone. I'd still like to hear more opinions on GPUs (nVidia vs. AMD/ATI).
5096
Living Room / Re: Yet Another Help-Me-Build-a-New-Computer Thread
« Last post by Deozaan on July 21, 2011, 04:43 PM »
A quick reaction:

Case:
Looks just fine to me, though I don't like all those 'Christmas-lights' it has

CPU & Mainboard:
If you don't need SLI you could choose the MSI P67A-G45, it's some $20 less, but the second PCIe-x16 port has only 8 PCI-lanes instead of 16.

GPU:
Use what works in your set-up. Personally I've had lots of trouble with the ATI-based cards (on MSI mainboards amongst others), so I'm sticking with nVidia chips, unless there's a 0/0 swap policy available.

RAM:
I'd go for Kingston or another known brand, and not any of them 'over-clocking' DIMM's they're not worth the extra money.

Case: Yeah I don't really care about the "Christmas Lights" but they don't really bother me either.

Mainboard: Nice catch! I'm not intending on using SLI so that mainboard would indeed be a better fit for me.

GPU: There was a major consensus in this other thread that ATI was the way to go, especially with an Intel CPU. So I'd like to hear a bit more of the debate before making up my mind.

RAM: I looked into some Kingston RAM at higher speeds (1600) and found these for only $10 more (for 16 GB) than the slower (1333) G.SKILL sticks.
5097
Developer's Corner / Re: GarageGames: $99 Game Engines (with Source!)
« Last post by Deozaan on July 21, 2011, 04:25 PM »
I didn't expect the sale to last this long, but all good things must come to an end:

On sales promotions, our $99 promotion on Torque products will be ending soon. We haven't locked down a date yet, but it is a limited time promotion. I'd also like to note Torsion and pureLIGHT are also limited time sales. Grab them while they are on sale. Keep your eyes open for Torque 2D. There's going to be a sale on two products later on in the week.
5098
Living Room / Re: What are good sunglasses (brands)?
« Last post by Deozaan on July 21, 2011, 03:45 PM »
(OTOH) Contacts may be a better option if you can handle sticking something in your eye (I can't).

I wore contacts for years until suddenly I started getting constant/frequent "eye boogers" and the optometrist recommended I start wearing glasses instead.

The eye boogers were bad. In the morning I'd wake up and my eyelids would be "sealed" shut because the goop had hardened in my eyelashes along the whole length of my eyelids and I'd have to spend a minute or two pulling the crusty stuff off before I could open my eyes. And all day long I was constantly digging the "sand" out of my tear ducts. It just would not stop forming when I had contacts in.

So now I just dream about LASIK. :D
5099
Living Room / Yet Another Help-Me-Build-a-New-Computer Thread
« Last post by Deozaan on July 21, 2011, 03:23 PM »
Hi folks,

My current PC feels like a centipede that's on it's last leg. I've had numerous problems with it over the years and just this month I've had yet another a hard drive failure and 1 stick of RAM failed. This old single core 2.24 Ghz AMD, with 1 GB RAM, using Windows 7 has been driving me crazy. It's been sooooooooooo sllloooooooow!

I've been saving up for several months now and I just checked some prices and I think I have enough to buy a really nice new PC now. And if not now, then most likely by next month I will. Or hopefully really soon anyway. So I figured this would be a good time to start talking specifics and get educated and some feedback on the different components and what really matters these days (this computer is from 2006 and is single core, so... yeah a lot has changed).

I'm somewhat budget conscious but I do need a fairly powerful machine as I am a gamer and I also like to fiddle around with VMs and 3D rendering, etc. I also don't want to be miserable again in 2 years with a sluggish machine, so I'd like this thing to be as future-ready as possible so I can go 5 to 6 (or 7!) years before upgrading again. That said, here's my list of components I'm thinking of, along with questions and options. Please respond and suggestions and feedback.

UPDATE: Okay I just placed the order for the initial build:

Case: $90 for COOLER MASTER Storm Scout SGC-2000-KKN1-GP.
PSU: $120 for LEPA G500-MA 500W 80 PLUS Gold Certified Modular.
MOBO: $155 for MSI Z68A-GD55 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX.
CPU: $315 for Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core.
RAM: $61 for CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800).

That totals about $716 with some promo codes and $25 in NewEgg Gift Cards. But there's also $50 of mail-in-rebates.

Discussion about other parts below:

GPU: ASUS EAH6850 DC/2DIS/1GD5/V2 Radeon HD 6850 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16.

Possibly outdated info: This is one area where I'm not exactly sure what to do. Typically I get nVidia GeForce cards, but earlier this year some folks here on DC said that ATI/AMD GPUs tend to be more compatible with Intel CPUs, so I guess just buy an ATI card in the similar price range as the nVidia I had on my list? I typically stick with EVGA brand cards, too, but it seems they don't make any ATI GPUs. So are there specific brands I should avoid or that are known for reliability and quality? Please suggest some GPUs. For comparison/price range, I was considering at the EVGA 01G-P3-1556-KR GeForce GTX 550 Ti (Fermi) FPB 1GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 for about $150 (before $20 mail in rebate). But since I'm going for the $100 less CPU, I could spend a little more on the GPU if it's worth it. Ideally I'd like to keep it at around $150 but definitely no more than $200 unless there's a really, really, really good reason to go for it.

Monitor(s): Recycled.

HDDs: I'd like to get a 2 TB HDD or two but those are about $100 each so they can wait.

SDD: I'd really like to get an SSD for the OS drive but 64 GB still seems too small for me and they're still a bit on the expensive side (I don't like spending more than $100 on a drive). I'll probably end up with a 64 GB SSD but it can wait a little while longer.

Sound card: I'm no audiophile so onboard sound will do.

Keyboard/Mouse: Recycled from current PC.

DVD: Recycled. Current DVD drive is IDE so I will probably need to get a SATA one. Might as well get one that can do Blu-Ray playback, too, but this can also wait. I'll just use a USB drive or USB-connected DVD drive to install the OS with.

WiFi: I'd like to get a Wireless N card so I'm open to suggestions but if I have to I can probably just recycle my current PC's WiFi card.

Aftermarket Cooler: I've probably not going to push the limits of overclocking but I figure I might as well make use of the overclocking abilities, so I'll probably want an aftermarket cooler eventually.

All-in-One Media Card Reader: Yeah, that's one thing that I could really use around here.

UPS: A power outage/brown out recently fried one of my hard drives and possible a stick of RAM, so a UPS would be very useful.



Anything else I'm forgetting? :-\
5100
Living Room / Re: What are good sunglasses (brands)?
« Last post by Deozaan on July 21, 2011, 04:14 AM »
While I don't know how small your small frames are, I do think if you went in and had them re-adjust the fit they'd annoy you a lot less. Nose pads should never be painful (even the cheap ones) if adjusted properly.

I was bargain hunting. There was a deal where certain frames were really cheap but I didn't like the look (or feel) of any of them. Then I found some that seemed to fit okay and I thought looked good. Turns out I had somehow meandered into the "youth" section. But they felt fine at the time and they were the only ones I liked, so my frames are "youth" sized. After wearing them a while I feel like they squeeze my head too tightly near my ears but also the weight of them on my nose starts bothering me as well.

I think I may just be really sensitive to stuff on myself. I can never stand to wear bracelets, a necklace, or a watch. Wearing over the head earphones hurts my ears, and in-ear earphones hurt the inside of my ear. So yeah, this constant downward pressure on the bridge of my nose starts to hurt after a while. And the frame "arms" squeezing my head just behind my temples is what really hurts.

Any issues with depth perception?

Not that I'm aware of. At least not without glasses.

I think I'd prefer as light weight as possible, ultra padded/soft on the nose and ears. And really big lenses that cover as much of my field of vision as possible so I can see wherever I look without having to point my face directly at what I'm looking at to get it within the lens frame.

You don't want to go too big and end up with out-of-fashion BCGs (Birth Control Glasses...). Chances are, being your first pair you may have fiddled with them a bit to much from not being used to having them on your face (it happens). Or maybe they were just not fitted properly when you originally got them. Adjusting the frames to properly fit a persons face comfortably is an art.

I don't necessarily want those huge, thick lenses like those of BCGs, but what I really hate is after wearing my glasses for a long time, I take them off and I can close my eyes and see the "boxes" of the frames around the lenses. It makes me feel like I have tunnel vision. Except instead of being round tunnels it's more like a thin, wide rectangle (think Cyclops of X-Men).

I think I'd probably be fine with frames that are a bit larger vertically than mine are, and also curved around the side of my head. Basically I just want as much of my viewing area to be covered by the lenses so I can comfortably look with my eyes instead of my head. This is especially important when in leisurely or awkward positions (e.g. laying down or contorting into a strange position try to reach something behind a refrigerator, etc.).

I also don't like how the world bends and distorts as I move my head around. It's weird.

And one more problem I have: My eyelashes are kind of long I guess, and they often brush up against the inside of any glasses I ever try on. Ever. So annoying!

What I really want is LASIK with transition/UV/polarized lenses. ;)

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