Recent Posts

5026

General Software Discussion / Re: $20 if you make me a 6' Molex cable. $10 for recommending a better solution.

« Last post by 4wd on July 18, 2009, 07:59 PM »

That bigger drives should require more power also sounds a bit silly, imho only faster rpm and (perhaps) more spindles would require more juice.

-f0dder (July 18, 2009, 08:18 AM)

I think you meant platters unless there's something in the works about dual spindle drives

I'm with you, the WD RE4-GP 2TB HDD lists a read/write power consumption of 6.8W, startup isn't listed but I don't think I'm far wrong in saying it would be in the range of 15-20W since it's only 4 platter.

Power consumption for HDDs has generally decreased since they found that instead of more platters they can cram more bits on a platter.

My DNS-313 Single drive NAS PSU is rated at 36W, (12V @ 3A), and will handle anything I stick in it bearing in mind it also has to run a small Linux machine in there also.

300W for a dual drive external enclosure is just ridiculous even if it is a NAS, eg. the DNS-323 Dual HDD RAID NAS has a ~50W PSU.

5027

Living Room / Re: Looking for P2p file sharing for personal use

« Last post by 4wd on July 18, 2009, 06:49 PM »

4wd doesn't do blogging nor does he allow kids on his lawn.

-Innuendo (July 18, 2009, 11:46 AM)

Damn right!!  Little b*ggers always digging up the plants and pooping everywhere....place is like a minefield!

Then again, since the block is so steep that I don't actually have a lawn....maybe it's something else?

Martian tripods perhaps?

5028

Living Room / Re: Send Yourself To Mars!

« Last post by 4wd on July 18, 2009, 06:43 PM »

The second stage rocket will give it a Boost but I hope they get the landing right or it'll be up and down like a YoYo.

No doubt the first dog to Mars will be a Yorkie.

5029

Living Room / Re: DRM hits a new low as Amazon hits the delete key

« Last post by 4wd on July 18, 2009, 05:41 AM »

Here's the quirky part - both Orwell books are freely downloadable Down Under.

-nosh (July 18, 2009, 04:12 AM)

Don't worry, I'm sure the industrious people behind the FTA are working to correct that slight oversight in the copyright laws.

5030

Living Room / Re: Send Yourself To Mars!

« Last post by 4wd on July 18, 2009, 01:46 AM »

Although the mission is a Cherry, Ripe for the taking.

5031

Living Room / Re: Send Yourself To Mars!

« Last post by 4wd on July 17, 2009, 08:00 PM »

Send Yourself To Mars!

That could raise a few Snickers.

-cranioscopical (July 17, 2009, 01:58 PM)

It sure wouldn't be a Picnic.

5032

Living Room / Re: Send Yourself To Mars!

« Last post by 4wd on July 17, 2009, 01:23 PM »

Well, in this case you'll get a personal visit from one of the Martian tripods.  

5033

Living Room / Send Yourself To Mars!

« Last post by 4wd on July 17, 2009, 11:40 AM »

Fellow DC'ers, why restrict yourself to this miserable little rock in space when you can travel the solar system.....

Send yourself to Mars courtesy of NASA.

Unfortunately due to weight restrictions you won't be able to take any luggage, food, electronic devices, camera, clothes, drink or even yourself!

However, through the modern miracle of Flat Space Technology we can shrink you down and turn you into a stream of electrons that looks like your name!

We then lovingly handcut this into a microchip and then shove it unceremoniously into a very small rover to be launched in 2011.

We even give you a certificate!

So friends, Send Yourself To Mars!



This is astronaut N2M400325994 signing off....

5034

General Software Discussion / Re: What Windows needs: fully streamlined application installation at setup

« Last post by 4wd on July 17, 2009, 06:27 AM »

The application installer I mentioned is just that.  An application installer.  If you go to vLite forum I believe they have some scripts for it.  I don't recall the name of it but it shouldn't be that big a hunt.

-MilesAhead (July 16, 2009, 11:26 PM)

I think you mean WPI, (Windows Post Installer), there's a forum for it at MSFN along with vlite/nlite - it's the preferred way to add applications to a vlite'd Vista install.

It allows you to optionally select/install various applications or set it so it just installs them without user intervention - it runs after the Windows install.

IIRC, it comes with sample scripts for some common Windows programs, eg. uTorrent, etc.

WPI forum

@zaine: You might also want to look at RunOnceEx Creator, which can generate the cmd file for the RunOnceEx method of application installation.  This might be the easiest method because it has a database of program installations complete with required command line switches for silent installation method.

ie.
1) Run it.
2) Click the arrow next to the Add button and select Database.
3) Click the arrow next to Description in the next window and select the program you want to add.
4) It will fill out the install switches.

All you need to do is download the install package and make sure it's in the right directory with the right name ready to be called.

NOTE: This is for XP but here's a walkthrough for a similar procedure in Vista.

Installing RunOnceEx Creator may still be of help for Vista, in giving you the silent install switches for the various programs.

5035

General Software Discussion / Re: Windows XP & sata drive

« Last post by 4wd on July 17, 2009, 03:03 AM »

If it has an USB floppy emulation mode, then perhaps that would work? I think the "press f6 to insert drivers" thing happens before booting fully into the NT kernel, so it has an opportunity to use BIOS calls and copy drivers to the install partition?

-f0dder (July 16, 2009, 11:20 PM)

Well, it's official....I'm senile 

None of the SPs enable XP to use a flash drive.

I must have mis-remembered between my USB flash drive and USB floppy drive.  My only defense is it's been a couple of years since I have had to use the F6 method - obviously alcohol destroyed those brain cells that had the requisite information.

Back under my rock for now but I'm still almost positive I've seen this work on one of my boards - I wish I still had that AsRock motherboard to test with.

5036

General Software Discussion / Re: media box - any hints, tips, or recommendations...

« Last post by 4wd on July 17, 2009, 02:37 AM »

I had considered that, however wouldn't the dual boot predicate a display and a keyboard?

-Target (July 16, 2009, 11:35 PM)

Have it default to MythTV on timeout when at home and when you go to a LAN meet, plug the video out into a second input on your monitor and carry one of those roll-up silicon keyboard that cost around AU$15.

5037

General Software Discussion / Re: media box - any hints, tips, or recommendations...

« Last post by 4wd on July 16, 2009, 11:04 PM »

Perhaps dual boot between MythTV and FreeNAS ?

Choosing a filesystem that's common to both, (that might knock out using FreeNAS' ZFS).

5038

Living Room / Re: Looking for P2p file sharing for personal use

« Last post by 4wd on July 16, 2009, 11:00 PM »

Just bumping in case you guys missed the URL on the bottom of the previous post.

5039

Living Room / Re: How to claim unallocated disk space on XP ?

« Last post by 4wd on July 16, 2009, 10:56 PM »

If it's not too private, can you attach a screen capture of Disk Manager pointing out the space you want to reclaim?

There are some things it isn't advisable to reclaim, eg. the 8MB block that's usually unallocated at the start of any HDD bigger than 32GB(?).

Otherwise, Parted Magic will let you resize your existing partitions to reclaim space.

5040

General Software Discussion / Re: What Windows needs: fully streamlined application installation at setup

« Last post by 4wd on July 16, 2009, 08:01 PM »

But afa an individual setting up a disc to install the OS and a bunch of apps, if he has the install DVD, the whole slipstream disc is based on WinPE and this application install scripting engine(I forget what it's called.)

-MilesAhead (July 16, 2009, 07:47 PM)

WinBuilder to make the actual PE discs?

Or WPI for the selection/installing of programs after OS installation?

I use WinBuilder regularly for the creation of PEs but not OS install discs because I normally strip quite a lot out, so nlite/vlite is better in my case.
I found WPI too annoying to use, (ie. it relied on some component I normally strip out of a XP OS, so it never worked properly), so I just use the RunOnceEx or ServicePack method of installing apps after the OS.

MSFN's Unattended Windows is probably the best source of information all in one place regarding automating installation of the OS and applications.

EDIT: I should note that the MSFN link above is meant for XP installs but there is so much more info available for other Windows OS' available in the forums.

Unattended 2000/XP/2003/
Unattended Vista
Unattended Win7
Silent Application Installs

5041

General Software Discussion / Re: Windows XP & sata drive

« Last post by 4wd on July 16, 2009, 07:41 PM »

4wd: XP only supports loading drivers from floppy, flash drive support wasn't introduced until Vista (unless it's an addition in SP3).

-f0dder (July 15, 2009, 09:46 AM)

Well, all I can say is it works here but you could be right, I didn't take note of the SP.  Also, maybe it depends on how the flash has been formatted?

All mine are done to look like HDDs so I have a better than even chance of being able to boot off the damn things.

mrHappy: you can indeed run your SATA drives in "compatibility mode" in your BIOS, and then you won't need drivers... but then you won't get the full benefit from the drives (NCQ and such). It's pretty easy slipstreaming drivers to your install disc though, so I'd definitely run in AHCI mode

You can also use DriverPacks, just download the BASE program and the MassStorage driverpack and you'll end up with an XP that will load onto almost anything no matter what mode the SATA is in, (although they haven't updated it for some of the latest motherboards <6 months old).

EDIT: Actually I do now vaguely remember loading my SATA drivers from flash drive for SP2 for my old AsRock 939 motherboard - maybe it depends on the motherboard?

Dang it!  I'll just have to try it on the spare computer for each SP, enquiring minds want to know......grrrrr.......curse you f0dder!         

5042

Living Room / Re: A Problem for A Real Expert - the Haunted Router(s)

« Last post by 4wd on July 16, 2009, 07:27 PM »

I don't know how it works where you are, but in the USA, all devices that plug directly into AC mains require certification from the Underwriter's Laboratory before they can be legally sold. If you power your device with a plug-type PSU - and don't have an AC line coming into your device - only the PSU needs to be certified as opposed to the entire device. So manufactureres can just stock up on pre-certified external power supplies and be done with it. Saves them a huge amount of money since getting UL approval is time consuming and expensive. Also reduces their liability in the event the PSU burns.

-40hz (July 16, 2009, 10:04 AM)

Same here, although there have been cases where the supposedly 'certified' PSU or device is really just wearing a faked sticker.

5043

Living Room / Re: A Problem for A Real Expert - the Haunted Router(s)

« Last post by 4wd on July 16, 2009, 08:33 AM »

That question is addressed in the article. Look under the Selecting an Appropriate Wall Wart heading. You might miss it if you're just looking at the scematic.

-40hz (July 16, 2009, 07:39 AM)

Guilty as charged!  

I did mainly only look at the circuit, (which is just the standard linear regulator circuit), but I also noted from the article they never took into account the fact that most transformer powered equipment will have it's own internal regulator which is the point I was making.



The top circuit shows the typical setup for a device powered by a transformer based plugpack - the regulator is situated within the device and while it gets the full voltage from the plugpack, it will happily perform it's job.  (A 12V unregulated transformer based plugpack can typically provide up to ~16V.)

The bottom circuit shows what you get when you follow the article, you have removed the internal regulators minimum voltage drop - it will no longer regulate.

...

Within the range of regulated supplies requiring 100 to 150 milliamperes or less, the primary concern in selecting a wall wart is to make sure that it will supply power at least 3 volts DC in excess of the desired final controlled voltage, when the circuit is running at the designed load. This "3 volts in excess" comes from the basic needs of the voltage regulator itself. The most straight-forward approach to selecting a wall wart for your project would be to select one with an amperage rating that matches your needs and a voltage rating that is 3 or 4 volts higher. Thus, if you need a 5 VDC, 100 ma. regulated supply, you might select a used "9 VDC" wall wart rated at 100 or 150 ma. If you need a 9 volt regulated supply at 70 ma., you might select a small "12 VDC" wall wart rated at 100 ma.

The selection becomes a bit more complex, if you desire a 12 volt regulated supply. One way to go is, as discussed above, to use a 14, 15 or 16 VDC wall wart rated at least as large as your design load in milliamperes...

All they are concerned with here is the input requirements of the external regulator they are adding, not the input requirements of the internal regulator of the device.  ie. The internal regulator could be relying on that 'excess' voltage from a transformer.

It all comes down to the construction of the device that's being powered.  Personally, I wish they'd get rid off the freakin' need for the plugpacks - I'll generally try to buy equipment that doesn't require them now, direct mains powered is so much easier.

5044

General Software Discussion / Re: Firefox --3.5-- Extensions: Your favorite or most useful

« Last post by 4wd on July 16, 2009, 07:50 AM »

Search Google directly from addressbar. Can't get any better 

-Babis (July 16, 2009, 07:39 AM)

Firefox does a Google 'I feel lucky' search by default for anything you type in the address bar that isn't an address.

5045

Living Room / Re: A Problem for A Real Expert - the Haunted Router(s)

« Last post by 4wd on July 15, 2009, 10:02 PM »

Sean (one of my hardware tech buddies) pointed me towards this article, which discusses wall warts in detail, along with a project to safely add voltage regulation and filtering to an inexpensive plug-in power module.

-40hz (July 15, 2009, 09:32 PM)

That article is for your basic transformer style plugpack.  The circuit that is detailed is normally, (just to clarify - if the manufacturer wants a cleaner supply he may incorporate a simple switchmode design in the device itself but generally a lot of equipment uses basic linear regulators, eg. 7805, 7812, etc), what you find connected to the power input socket of the device - so in effect you are connecting another circuit that's the same in series.

The only problem with that is you've just disabled the internal voltage regulating circuit of the device.  The regulators mentioned in that article require at least an input voltage 1.2V above the required output voltage in order to regulate correctly otherwise they just drop out.

eg.  If your device requires 12V DC there will typically be a 7812 regulator connected to it's input power socket - it's relying on the normally unregulated voltage provided by the transformer plugpack of around 16V DC allowing it regulate correctly.

If you build the circuit as described and set its output to 12V DC and then plug that into your device, where does the internal regulator get its required voltage drop in order to regulate?

I would say he has success probably because of the extra filtering he's added by way of the capacitors.

Switchmode PSUs are self-regulating and don't require it, they only require the requisite load for regulation - and the latest versions don't even require that.

EDIT: Also note that article is from 2005, switchmode plugpacks have become more prevalent in the last 2-3 years.

Addendum: @raybeere: If the PSU is indeed a switchmode type, (they're generally lighter than transformer types is the easiest way to tell), then you should change it for the same type with an equivalent rating if you intend to.  The unregulated output from a generic transformer based PSU might damage the router, (unless the replacement specifically states it is regulated).

5046

Living Room / Re: Looking for P2p file sharing for personal use

« Last post by 4wd on July 15, 2009, 08:56 PM »

The tunneling thing sounds interesting, would it be possible to send it to me as well?

-Shades (July 15, 2009, 08:27 PM)

More work!!!

I thought I was retired?

I should start charging per hour  

Geddit 'ere: Tunneling.rar

5047

General Review Discussion / Re: Opinions on remote PC control software

« Last post by 4wd on July 15, 2009, 08:34 PM »

Any other free alternatives that are simple to use and secure?

-Carol Haynes (July 15, 2009, 07:48 PM)

I just use RDP, I haven't found anything that's faster or less resource intensive, possibly not as simple as, for example, CrossLoop but not that hard either.

More specifically, Remote Assistance - they send an invite, you use it to connect, they approve, (at least that's how I remember it working).

As far as security goes, isn't anything you get them to run going to leave an open port in their firewall after requesting access through it?

EDIT: Assuming it's Remote Assistance + Windows Firewall, Windows will close the port after use.

5048

Living Room / Re: A Problem for A Real Expert - the Haunted Router(s)

« Last post by 4wd on July 15, 2009, 08:09 PM »

If you check the output coming off your router's power supply with a multimeter you should be able to see if the correct voltage is being supplied. I'd be especially on the lookout for specs that read lower rather than higher. Low voltage can often cause a device to run hotter than it should.

...

Suggestion: if you do test your adapter, try running it in its normal environment for an hour or two and then try to test it immediately after you disconnect it from the router. If there's a bad voltage condition, brought on by environmental or runtime factors, this will help you catch it.

-40hz (July 15, 2009, 07:03 AM)

According to Linksys' site, the PSU for that router is switchmode so you won't be able to get an accurate reading unless it's under load - and it still won't tell you how much ripple is on the output which is a problem when the capacitors in a switchmode start going high-ESR due to, for example, heat strain and voltage fluctuations.

It would be easier to replace the PSU with a known working one.

5049

Living Room / Re: Looking for P2p file sharing for personal use

« Last post by 4wd on July 15, 2009, 08:00 PM »

I just managed to reinstall all the keys  and make it work. The main problem with my xp64 could have been the fact that I tried to install the portable Vpn first. My initial impression is that that really did not play nice on the xp64. Unistalling and installing the latest beta seems to resolve the issues(again) Now both clients can see eachother. Thanks for the lead!

-kartal (July 15, 2009, 01:21 PM)

I think the Portable version is x86 only, (but I'm not sure - I haven't checked the extracted files).

Is it ever possible to share a folde on Vpn but not on lan? I mean for example I would like to sahre some folders just on vpn network. I guess if that is not possible I will just use ssh for that kind of stuff.

Good question!  I don't know, I would think you need to limit folder access by IP address - something f0dder may be able to answer.

Somewhere I saw that the tunneling from one machine to another machine was possible over ssh.

Yes, you can tunnel using almost any kind of traffic, I have a mag here that has a lot of info on how to set it up, mainly from a Linux point of view but if you like I can scan and email them to you.

5050

Living Room / Re: A Problem for A Real Expert - the Haunted Router(s)

« Last post by 4wd on July 15, 2009, 05:14 AM »

"Dirty" power: Thanks the most absurd house wiring layout I've ever seen, I have no choice but to have all this stuff on the same circuit as the refrigerator. Sigh. I know that isn't great - but, again, why just the router? Why isn't anything else having problems? (In all that time, I lost one cheap printer that was already on its way out - to a clogged print head. That's it, except for the routers.) So, not good, I agree (and if anyone has cheap suggestions for improving the situation, I'm all ears), but that doesn't seem right, either.

-raybeere (July 14, 2009, 02:04 PM)

Just in regard to your Dirty Power, I take it an extension lead to a GPO on another circuit is out of the question?

Either for the fridge or computer equipment, of course you need to clear the existing fault w.r.t the router before you can try this as a means to prove it one way or the other.

Mind you, as soon as you start using an extension lead nothing will happen.................until the week after you stop using it