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Living Room / Re: Send Yourself To Mars!
« Last post by 4wd on July 18, 2009, 01:46 AM »Although the mission is a Cherry, Ripe for the taking.
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It sure wouldn't be a Picnic.Send Yourself To Mars!That could raise a few Snickers.-cranioscopical (July 17, 2009, 01:58 PM)
The application installer I mentioned is just that. An application installer. If you go to vLite forum I believe they have some scripts for it. I don't recall the name of it but it shouldn't be that big a hunt.-MilesAhead (July 16, 2009, 11:26 PM)
If it has an USB floppy emulation mode, then perhaps that would work? I think the "press f6 to insert drivers" thing happens before booting fully into the NT kernel, so it has an opportunity to use BIOS calls and copy drivers to the install partition?-f0dder (July 16, 2009, 11:20 PM)
I had considered that, however wouldn't the dual boot predicate a display and a keyboard?-Target (July 16, 2009, 11:35 PM)
But afa an individual setting up a disc to install the OS and a bunch of apps, if he has the install DVD, the whole slipstream disc is based on WinPE and this application install scripting engine(I forget what it's called.)-MilesAhead (July 16, 2009, 07:47 PM)
4wd: XP only supports loading drivers from floppy, flash drive support wasn't introduced until Vista (unless it's an addition in SP3).-f0dder (July 15, 2009, 09:46 AM)
mrHappy: you can indeed run your SATA drives in "compatibility mode" in your BIOS, and then you won't need drivers... but then you won't get the full benefit from the drives (NCQ and such). It's pretty easy slipstreaming drivers to your install disc though, so I'd definitely run in AHCI mode
I don't know how it works where you are, but in the USA, all devices that plug directly into AC mains require certification from the Underwriter's Laboratory before they can be legally sold. If you power your device with a plug-type PSU - and don't have an AC line coming into your device - only the PSU needs to be certified as opposed to the entire device. So manufactureres can just stock up on pre-certified external power supplies and be done with it. Saves them a huge amount of money since getting UL approval is time consuming and expensive. Also reduces their liability in the event the PSU burns.-40hz (July 16, 2009, 10:04 AM)
That question is addressed in the article. Look under the Selecting an Appropriate Wall Wart heading. You might miss it if you're just looking at the scematic.-40hz (July 16, 2009, 07:39 AM)
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Within the range of regulated supplies requiring 100 to 150 milliamperes or less, the primary concern in selecting a wall wart is to make sure that it will supply power at least 3 volts DC in excess of the desired final controlled voltage, when the circuit is running at the designed load. This "3 volts in excess" comes from the basic needs of the voltage regulator itself. The most straight-forward approach to selecting a wall wart for your project would be to select one with an amperage rating that matches your needs and a voltage rating that is 3 or 4 volts higher. Thus, if you need a 5 VDC, 100 ma. regulated supply, you might select a used "9 VDC" wall wart rated at 100 or 150 ma. If you need a 9 volt regulated supply at 70 ma., you might select a small "12 VDC" wall wart rated at 100 ma.
The selection becomes a bit more complex, if you desire a 12 volt regulated supply. One way to go is, as discussed above, to use a 14, 15 or 16 VDC wall wart rated at least as large as your design load in milliamperes...
Search Google directly from addressbar. Can't get any better-Babis (July 16, 2009, 07:39 AM)
Sean (one of my hardware tech buddies) pointed me towards this article, which discusses wall warts in detail, along with a project to safely add voltage regulation and filtering to an inexpensive plug-in power module.-40hz (July 15, 2009, 09:32 PM)
The tunneling thing sounds interesting, would it be possible to send it to me as well?-Shades (July 15, 2009, 08:27 PM)
Any other free alternatives that are simple to use and secure?-Carol Haynes (July 15, 2009, 07:48 PM)
If you check the output coming off your router's power supply with a multimeter you should be able to see if the correct voltage is being supplied. I'd be especially on the lookout for specs that read lower rather than higher. Low voltage can often cause a device to run hotter than it should.
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Suggestion: if you do test your adapter, try running it in its normal environment for an hour or two and then try to test it immediately after you disconnect it from the router. If there's a bad voltage condition, brought on by environmental or runtime factors, this will help you catch it.-40hz (July 15, 2009, 07:03 AM)
I just managed to reinstall all the keys and make it work. The main problem with my xp64 could have been the fact that I tried to install the portable Vpn first. My initial impression is that that really did not play nice on the xp64. Unistalling and installing the latest beta seems to resolve the issues(again) Now both clients can see eachother. Thanks for the lead!-kartal (July 15, 2009, 01:21 PM)
Is it ever possible to share a folde on Vpn but not on lan? I mean for example I would like to sahre some folders just on vpn network. I guess if that is not possible I will just use ssh for that kind of stuff.
Somewhere I saw that the tunneling from one machine to another machine was possible over ssh.
"Dirty" power: Thanks the most absurd house wiring layout I've ever seen, I have no choice but to have all this stuff on the same circuit as the refrigerator. Sigh. I know that isn't great - but, again, why just the router? Why isn't anything else having problems? (In all that time, I lost one cheap printer that was already on its way out - to a clogged print head. That's it, except for the routers.) So, not good, I agree (and if anyone has cheap suggestions for improving the situation, I'm all ears), but that doesn't seem right, either.-raybeere (July 14, 2009, 02:04 PM)
Do I need to recreate keys for servers and clients everytime I add a new client?-kartal (July 14, 2009, 10:47 PM)
Because I did not, I did just create the client2 key and did that build dh thing and copied the original ca.crt(from thr server) file to the client.
The only thing is that client2 is a xp64, and I know 64bit network drivers are tricky. Also I am in the middle of something and I have not restarted my computer this time.
I seem to recall there being some issue with Linksys router power supplies in the past, (eg. failing within months), but I'm not sure whereabouts on the planet and how long ago.
@raybeere: You could also try powering the router off of an equivalently rated supply, (as long as it's not one the previously killed router supplies) - maybe it's original supply took just enough of a hit to make it marginal.-4wd (July 14, 2009, 06:47 PM)
I'm trying to understand, but this isn't clear. If the power supply was dying, wouldn't the whole thing fail at once? The router is still working (although on my last ping a few minutes ago, the first ping took 7ms) but I cannot access the control panel at all. Why would the power supply affect this? I was thinking it was more that the firmware was messed up in some way.-raybeere (July 14, 2009, 08:52 PM)
I tried to find some info about sharing my already shared network drives on Openvpn but I could not. Is it possible to access shared folders(on another comp on the network) on Openvpn? I just do not want to install the server on every machine.-kartal (July 14, 2009, 06:10 PM)
