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4451

Living Room / Re: Need recommendation for wireless adapter

« Last post by 4wd on January 04, 2011, 05:25 PM »

I have 2 or 3 NetGear WG111 v1 and v2, (b/g), and they've never given any problems but this is on XP machines.  Not using them now since I've moved to Powerline adapters.

The N150, N300 and N600 USB adapters are their Wireless-n versions.

Overall, Netgear is one of the most reliable brands I've used but I've never used whatever software came with them other than the basic driver.

Newegg currently have a Recertified N300 available for $25, ($40-55 less than new).

4452

Post New Requests Here / Re: IDEA: Wireless sensor

« Last post by 4wd on January 04, 2011, 07:25 AM »

Thanks SJ, I'll give that a go first as it's easier to do than fool around with Scheduled Tasks.


Addendum:  That didn't seem to work, (no output to a logfile or any other indication it ran), so it's back to the Scheduled Task idea.

4453

Post New Requests Here / Re: IDEA: Wireless sensor

« Last post by 4wd on January 04, 2011, 06:29 AM »

Just to let you know what's happening:

1) Got a service that works and reports whether there's a connection or not, (just by setting/deleting a file - lo-tech approach but it works).
2) I can display the status on the initial logon screen.
3) I can display the status in the SysTray after logon.

The one thing that's screwing everything up is displaying something on the logon screen again after someone has logged off - Windows kills any program that's already running when the user logs off.

There's only one more thing I can try and that's setting a Scheduled Task to run at the next minute after logoff by calling the AT command, (or directly entering into the Task list), this way it should run as LOCAL SYSTEM account.

If that doesn't work then I'm fresh out of ideas and it'll be over to someone with more knowledge of Windows than I've got, (which wouldn't be hard).

4454

Developer's Corner / Re: Please explain FTP file permissions

« Last post by 4wd on January 03, 2011, 05:36 PM »

Regarding the 4096, here's the answer from the superuser site: Why is the size of a directory always 4096 bytes in unix?

But note in the comments that it is filesystem dependent, ReiserFS apparently reports the directory content size.

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Living Room / Re: Not backing up will cost you!

« Last post by 4wd on December 30, 2010, 08:25 PM »

I do have a question, how do all these individual drives connect to the server?  I can't imagine there's 16 SATA cables coming out the back plugging into the motherboard?  Does it use a CAT5?  Is something going on inside the box which combines it into one SATA or eSATA cable?  How does this work?

-superboyac (December 30, 2010, 07:56 PM)

Port Multipliers - one eSATA port into 4 or 5 SATA drives, or Infiniband - 4 SATA ports into one cable and then back to 4 SATA drives, (maybe even 20 drives if you can tack Port Multipliers on the end).

Addonics, (yes, them again ), sell Port Multipliers.  The 5-Port HPM-XA on a PCI bracket will give you access to 5 SATA drives over 1 eSATA cable.

If you will be going to move most of the drives out of your system box into an external enclosure then that will free up more internal SATA connectors to be used as eSATA ports or a couple of Infiniband ports.

The Norco case you seem to have chosen allows for the installation of a motherboard and since you're going to connect the drives to a network for house-wide access which would require a PC anyway, (or some form of SATA->Network interface), then you may as well install a motherboard and create a NAS, (using whatever OS tickles your fancy - XP Pro, WHS, etc for simplicity of filesync software or eg. FreeNAS for full-blown NAS).  This will give you lots of SATA ports, (whether onboard or PCIe cards), and the Gb interface.

Addendum: If you were going to go for the NAS thing, then possibly a motherboard with multiple Gb ports that allows 'Teaming', (ASUS term, Gigabyte use something else), this would reduce any bottleneck from the network.

4456

Living Room / Re: Not backing up will cost you!

« Last post by 4wd on December 30, 2010, 07:27 PM »

Actually, aren't there are two definitions for JBOD? One where data is spanned across the disks as you describe; and the other where a virtual disk manager is put on top of the "bunch of drives" but where each physical disk operates independently of the others?

-40hz (December 30, 2010, 07:03 PM)

The spanned version is more properly called SPAN (DOH!) or BIG now, with JBOD correctly being just individually addressed drives.  However, even some company descriptions seem to get it wrong.

eg. Some of Addonics products refer to JBOD (Concatenation), which I would have thought would really be SPAN or BIG, which they refer to on others.  Some have JBOD (Individual) and BIG.

If I recall correctly Goolge's Greyhole Project utilizes the second approach, but goes it one better by providing for data replication in software. Doing that makes Greyhole act much like a RAID-5 combined with an extremely flexible drive concatenation capability. This is similar to the 'Drive Extender' feature Microsoft just removed from their new Home Server release.

That looks very interesting, kind of like a combination of AFS, ZFS and RAID-5 

4457

Living Room / Re: Not backing up will cost you!

« Last post by 4wd on December 30, 2010, 06:59 PM »

I see.  Yes, i'm probably misusing the term.  I figured JBOD meant exactly what I thought, but it's not.

-superboyac (December 30, 2010, 06:34 PM)

No, it might just be me.    As I said, generally JBOD has implied what is really meant as SPAN when people talked about it.  But JBOD really means what you have stated, Just a Bunch Of Drives - each individually addressable.

So your use is correct, however specifying JBOD still implies no data redundancy.

What's the difference between what I'm describing and Raid-1?

With RAID-1, one HDD is mirrored to another - they both contain exactly the same data, ergo they, (AFAIK), have to be the same capacity.  It's also taken care of by the controller, no user interaction, (apart from initial setup), required unless one HDD dies.

File syncing requires that the user run additional software, (and makes sure it's running), and action any errors, eg. files locked, permissions, etc, however the HDDs can be different capacities or the same HDD but different partition.

Incidentally, following on from worstje and JJ above, if you were going to try RAID-1, (even if only on a pair of your HDDs), I'd suggest using two different manufacturers, eg. WD 2TB and a Samsung 2TB, you'd be unlikely to end up with two HDD from the same batch.  Also, it would probably be better to use Enterprise class HDDs instead of Desktop class.

4458

Living Room / Re: Not backing up will cost you!

« Last post by 4wd on December 30, 2010, 05:33 PM »

I'm building me a JBOD server, baby!!

-superboyac (December 29, 2010, 01:36 PM)

Geezz, the perfect way to lose everything through the failure of one drive.

-4wd (December 30, 2010, 04:42 PM)

Wait...huh?  I don't understand why.  I'm not raiding.  i'm just putting a bunch of disks in a rack.  Each disk will have another identical disk (or two) for backup up (not images, but file syncing).  How would I lose everything?  If what you say is true, then even my current setup is at risk.  but I don't think what you are saying is true.

-superboyac (December 30, 2010, 05:23 PM)

I think that maybe I may have misunderstood because of your use of the term JBOD.

Generally, JBOD refers to combining separate HDDs into effectively one bigger HDD so that data is spanned across all of them.  So if the 3rd HDD of a 5 HDD array dies, you've generally lost all data across all HDDs.  You may be able to recover files using recovery software from the other HDDs but it'll be a long process.

By definition, JBOD is non-RAID and therefore there is no data redundancy.

Your explanation of what you're going to end up with is kind of a RAID-1 setup for each individual HDD without actually using RAID.

4459

Living Room / Re: Not backing up will cost you!

« Last post by 4wd on December 30, 2010, 04:42 PM »

I'm building me a JBOD server, baby!!

-superboyac (December 29, 2010, 01:36 PM)

Geezz, the perfect way to lose everything through the failure of one drive.

4460

Living Room / Re: Cute jokes' thread

« Last post by 4wd on December 30, 2010, 06:52 AM »

From C-Section Comics:



* You need to take note of the comic mouseovers on the site.

4461

Living Room / Re: USB hubs - does anything like this exist?

« Last post by 4wd on December 30, 2010, 04:06 AM »

Here's a circuit using a Quad Bilateral Switch, CMOS or TTL they are pin compatible - although the TTL would need to be 74HC or 74HCT series.

Parts:
4066 CMOS or 74HC4066 or 74HCT4066 (use a IC socket)
DPDT toggle switch
100nF MKT capacitor

You could wire up the whole thing on the back of the IC socket.


Here's the functional sketch bit:


The only thing I'm not sure about is whether the internal parameters of the IC will allow full 480Mb/s without degradation but it's a simple circuit so if it doesn't perform satisfactorily then there's always the rotary switch method

The other thing I have is a Belkin Flip, haven't tested it yet but I don't see why you could just not use the monitor port, connect the keyboard to one of the USB ports and a self-powered hub to the other.
If you're interested I'll give it test - I don't use it anymore since I use DVI connectors now.

4462

Living Room / Re: USB hubs - does anything like this exist?

« Last post by 4wd on December 29, 2010, 07:40 PM »

now I'm curious about you're beneficial solution (are we going into manufacturing?)

-Target (December 29, 2010, 07:34 PM)

Nah, nothing so productive - just a little testing with a bit of equipment no longer in use around here - who knows maybe you'll get a simple solution and I'll get some pocket money for more Steam sales  

4463

Living Room / Re: USB hubs - does anything like this exist?

« Last post by 4wd on December 29, 2010, 07:24 PM »

Yes, you can try a 2-pole, 2 position switch and just switch the data lines.  Power the hub from an external source so you're not switching the power lines as well.  Leave the ground connected back to the computers but not the +5V.
You might need some kind of buffering, (not the data type - more to debounce the change-over), but you can certainly try it without first.

-4wd (December 29, 2010, 06:49 PM)

that's more like it

so is it acceptable to leave both power lines connected concurrently?  I haven't looked at the pinouts yet, but I assume this from your comments

-Target (December 29, 2010, 07:07 PM)

I wouldn't call it acceptable, there's a risk of destroying the USB device or you may have the two computers fighting each other if the voltage supply isn't exactly the same.
Since you'd be having one powered port anyway, (for external 2.5"), you might as well power them all externally - plus it's so easy

EDIT: Just to expand on the underlined bit.  If you switch the +5V then you're effectively disconnecting the power and reconnecting within a very short space of time.  This could induce a voltage spike into the device but I look at it this way: I wouldn't do it to my whole system, a television, or any electronic device since it has been proven in the past to kill devices.

If you leave both connected  then a fault in one computer could possibly feedback into the other - why take the chance?

I prefer to leave the USB devices powered and just switch the data lines, there's less chance of a voltage spike being induced into the data lines that way also.

and how would you 'buffer' the change over?  I don't anticipate that I would be switching while anything critical was running so I do expect it would be an issue, but now I'm curious

Did you mean don't ?

Possibly just a couple of CMOS/TTL chips wired to input/output lines, the problem being looking through specs to find what's capable of >480MHz switching.  I'd need to look through my circuit library and check the web to get a better idea and see how critical it'd be.

See my edit to my previous post also.

4464

Living Room / Re: USB hubs - does anything like this exist?

« Last post by 4wd on December 29, 2010, 06:49 PM »

A simple toggle switch to the control lines of a Quad Bilateral Switch, (4066 CMOS or 74HC(T)4066 TTL), is a relatively simple way to do it and it would be self-powered.  However, I'd look at making all the ports powered via external means.  You're talking about 12 ports, if they are all occupied at a relatively modest power consumption of 100mA, even with 1 powered that's still 1.1A, over twice the specified current sourcing for 1 USB port - which will be where it's coming from.

-4wd (December 29, 2010, 06:11 PM)

HA! once a tech, always a tech

-Target (December 29, 2010, 06:25 PM)

Thanks!  

my electronics knowledge is rudimentary at best so that's possibly beyond my current abilities (seems like it would need some sort of control circuit to make it work) - I was thinking along the lines of a simple (analog) type switch

Yes, you can try a 2-pole, 2 position switch and just switch the data lines.  Power the hub from an external source so you're not switching the power lines as well.  Leave the ground connected back to the computers but not the +5V.
You might need some kind of buffering, (not the data type - more to debounce the change-over), but you can certainly try it without first.

DSE - $0.99
Jaycar - $3.95

EDIT: If you want to wait a few hours, (housework - BLAH!), then I can sketch up a simple circuit using the 4066, (or TTL version), and post it up.  If you can solder two wires together it shouldn't prove daunting and the components are minimal, say ~$10.
Otherwise I do have another idea that may be mutually beneficial 

4465

Living Room / Re: USB hubs - does anything like this exist?

« Last post by 4wd on December 29, 2010, 06:11 PM »

as an aside it occurred to me (about 10 minutes after I posted, DUH!) that someone, somewhere must have already done this so I went looking for a DIY version.  There are a number of references of multiple port hubs being constructed by gutting a bunch of cheap hubs and mounting them all in a single case (basically daisy chaining), and it doesn't seem like much of a stretch to extend this concept to add a switch and 2 inputs...

3 unpowered and 1 powered (with a suitable power supply) would give me 12 ports...hmmm  

-Target (December 29, 2010, 05:01 PM)

A simple toggle switch to the control lines of a Quad Bilateral Switch, (4066 CMOS or 74HC(T)4066 TTL), is a relatively simple way to do it and it would be self-powered.  However, I'd look at making all the ports powered via external means.  You're talking about 12 ports, if they are all occupied at a relatively modest power consumption of 100mA, even with 1 powered that's still 1.1A, over twice the specified current sourcing for 1 USB port - which will be where it's coming from.

A more interesting way would be to use a micro-controller, (eg. PIC, Atmel), to monitor the incoming PC USB data lines and through-switch to the devices - more interesting but maybe not more practical since, (as mwb1100 said), Windows would need time to identify all the devices before data could be sent through, so you'd need to incorporate some sort of RAM buffer I'd think or message back to the OS to hold until device ready is signaled.

4466

Living Room / Re: USB hubs - does anything like this exist?

« Last post by 4wd on December 29, 2010, 03:49 AM »

It sounds like you want to be able to share USB devices between computers.

Like these, (there's some more on the site):
USB 2.0 2-Port Switch for Sharing Devices
USB 2.0 4-Port Switch for Sharing Devices

You might be able to plug a normal self-powered hub into one of the ports, (I don't see why not), which would increase the number of devices accessible.

Here's one that's close to you, (well Brisbane anyway ): USB Sharing Hub

4467

General Software Discussion / Re: Run a security check on your Gmail account - if not already done

« Last post by 4wd on December 28, 2010, 05:07 PM »

This seems to be forced on by default in my Gmail, and I cannot change it. I did come across an information link to a Google note that explains that if you try to disable it, it will not be activated for a delay period, for security reasons. I don't recall whether you get an auto email to ask for confirmation that you wanted it disabled. (Which would make sense.)

-IainB (December 28, 2010, 04:38 PM)

You don't - I've had a couple of mine turned off for a while and I never received a confirmation prior to it taking effect.  I think they expect you to notice the next time you log in via browser - something I do very rarely.

eeerrr    Of course maybe it's different if you have a alternative email or SMS set up - neither of which I use.

4468

Living Room / Re: Startup Applications List: Executables that do/dont need to boot with windows

« Last post by 4wd on December 27, 2010, 04:38 PM »

It's too bad that these type of websites never actually check what they add and that all the lists just copy one another and that you can't get them to change their minds about a program once they've gone to the trouble of sticking it on their websites.

D066UUtility.exe - It is NOT a TWAIN driver.  It turns off the CFL in the film scanner after a certain period so its life isn't shortened unnecessarily.

4469

Living Room / Re: Need a New Mouse

« Last post by 4wd on December 27, 2010, 01:08 AM »

That's what I've heard. They didn't have the HTC Desire HD when I wanted to buy, so I stayed with Vodaphone. I don't know how good they are though. Never used a Telstra phone. They certainly can't be worse than Optus though~!

-Renegade (December 26, 2010, 09:23 PM)

I've always been with Telstra, (well since I worked for them 13 years ago), and at only $5/month I ain't going to change any time soon.

4470

Living Room / Re: Need a New Mouse

« Last post by 4wd on December 26, 2010, 06:39 PM »

Back to wireless -- I still don't like it much. The telcos here in Australia throw in an extra dose of incompetence for all things Internet. 3G barely works on the Optus or Vodaphone networks (haven't tried Telus) if at all.

-Renegade (December 26, 2010, 10:46 AM)

IIRC, Telstra currently has the best 3G, (or NextG as they call it), network in Australia.

4471

Living Room / Re: Need Help Finding a Domain Name

« Last post by 4wd on December 26, 2010, 05:49 AM »

apathetic.me
apathetic.us

4472

Living Room / Re: Need a New Mouse

« Last post by 4wd on December 26, 2010, 05:47 AM »

I am surprised that the battery does't last more than a day - most of the reviews I've seen on that mouse they get approx 4 or more days, (still way short of the 3 months I think they claim on the pack).

Maybe that's a consequence of using only one battery ?

Maybe it's just that battery ?

Some rechargeables are crap, have you tried another ?

A few of my LAN night friends use Logitech MX Revolution and usually get a month or more out of a set of batteries.

The MS 5000 Bluetooth claims 6 month battery life and if I put a decent set of alkaline in, I'd probably believe them.  The rechargeables certainly last a fair amount of time.

4473

Living Room / Re: Need Help Finding a Domain Name

« Last post by 4wd on December 26, 2010, 05:30 AM »

whyigotstuckwiththiscrappydomain.com

4474

Living Room / Re: Not backing up will cost you!

« Last post by 4wd on December 25, 2010, 03:28 AM »

I just want the thing that holds the drives.

-superboyac (December 25, 2010, 01:13 AM)

Addonics

RAID Tower IX - 15 hot-pluggable SATA drives, connect via eSATA, USB3, USB2 or Multilane^*  $729->$779 depending on whether you want Multilane or not
RAID Rack - 20 hot-pluggable SATA drives, connect via eSATA, USB3, USB2 or Multilane  $1219->$1619 depending on whether you want redundant PSU or not.

They use hardware RAID controllers, the RAID mode is easily set by turning a switch at the back to the mode you want.  You can also keep them as individual drives but if connecting by eSATA your motherboard chipset needs to support Port Multipliers, IIRC, any Intel chipset ICH10 or later.

I'd love to buy some of their stuff but it's so ridiculously expensive over here.

^* Multilane is 4 SATA channels configured into one Infiniband connector to provide maximum throughput, ie. 4 x 3Gb/s SATA channels instead of a single 3Gb/s eSATA channel.

Addendum: Otherwise for something a little cheaper to start with and more portable, there's their RAID Tower IV or their Mini Storage Towers.

4475

Living Room / Re: complete 180 on mouse preference - what's the best cheap mouse?

« Last post by 4wd on December 24, 2010, 10:54 AM »

Usually I've found that it's not the switch that fails but the mechanics of actuating it.  The plastic tab on the bottom of the button or the plastic actuator on the switch itself end up wearing grooves against each other requiring you to exert more force on the button to keep the switch actuated.

It gets to the point where you're actually pushing against the body of the switch rather than actuating it via those two small pieces of plastic.

I have bodged mice back to life by attaching small plastic shims to either the button or switch actuator but you really need to have fallen in love with the mouse or are just plain desperate to be bothered doing it.

Also, I've had to fix some really cheap mice like this because the plastic tab on the bottom of the button wasn't long enough in the first place.