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5351
General Software Discussion / Re: Acronis total dirt OS selector - kills hard drives!
« Last post by 4wd on November 25, 2008, 05:38 PM »
On a sort of related note... I tried to install Ubuntu on a partition last night (have C for programs, D for data and created a newie for Ubuntu)
During the install, the "partitioner" fired up, showed me I diagram which looked to me like C, D were to be left alone and the diag had the word "Ubuntu" next to the 3rd partition.
Imaging my surprise when I didn't have my XP C drive or data D drive anymore. Wouldn't it be simple for the install routione to say in plain english "hey, you're about to lose XP and a data partition"?

In the times where I've managed to summon enough enthusiasm to install and play with Linux, (dual booting with XP), I have always set up the necessary partitions and filesystems first so that when the Linux installer fires up it already selects the correct partitions.
5352
Living Room / Re: Why does it say paper jam when there is no paper jam?!
« Last post by 4wd on November 25, 2008, 04:59 PM »
Do people drug their cats for these videos, or are all those animals just that batshit insane? :huh:

Not all of them. Just most of them.

Virtually all, in fact. ;D

Actually, I would have thought that since animals work by instinct and so-called humans are supposedly (mostly) non-instinctual(?!) that the term insane can really only be applied to humans.

In fact, AFAIAC the whole planet would probably be better off if animals were running it   :P

Then again, some countries are already being run by animals  :huh:
5353
General Software Discussion / Re: Acronis total dirt OS selector - kills hard drives!
« Last post by 4wd on November 25, 2008, 04:48 PM »
If it helps, I can thoroughly recommend GetDataBack (NTFS/FAT).

It recovered all files off of a 320GB HDD in about 2 hours after a format in which the single partition on the HDD was described as "unrecognised filesystem" by the system, ie. all the partition info had disappeared.

EDIT: Dang It!  f0dder beat me  :(
5354
General Software Discussion / Re: making a recovery partition
« Last post by 4wd on November 25, 2008, 03:35 AM »
Perhaps Clonezilla is up to the job? Never used it myself, though.

Nice find, can't say I'd ever heard of it before.

I was also reminded of another way looking through my assorted squirreled info today, using WinPE 2.0 to boot and restore an image.

As explained here: Dual Booting with Windows XP and Windows PE 2.0

Depends on how much RAM is installed of course, (WinPE boots from/into RAM), but then you can restore the whole HDD from an image, no need for a separate partition - you just need to protect the image file.
5355
Living Room / Re: Tech News Weekly: Edition 47
« Last post by 4wd on November 24, 2008, 01:30 AM »
On 22: Too bad they can't implement it on product support personnel, maybe then you'd be guaranteed of a reply.
5356
General Software Discussion / Re: What is your boot time?
« Last post by 4wd on November 24, 2008, 01:15 AM »
Although harddisks are fast to spin up and register themselves with the BIOS, they are definitely not created equally.
If your motherboard takes more than a few seconds to detect your HDDs, then it's probably a problem of the motherboard, not of having a boot time that's too fast

Actually, it is more likely to be the HDDs - the HDD signals it's ready to the motherboard only after it's completed it's spin up and self-diagnostics, if any.  If the HDD is slow to spin up, (eg. it has a lot of platters), then the motherboard will fail to detect it.

Usually can be fixed by moving the offending HDD to a later scanned interface.

... indeed one of the most underrated and vital components of a PC

If it's underrated you should replace it with one with a better rating :P
5357
You're right, I should start playing with that one (but I like to play with nice GUI tools and stuff ;))

Honestly, I don't like my server to be looking for data on the LAN and store it. The idea of each machine in the LAN dumping the the data on the server charms me more.

I think that's the way rsync works, the server runs rsync as a service and the other machines run it as a client or on demand.

That is, the server sits there twiddling it's thumbs until one of the clients pokes it in the ribs and says, "Take this will ya."  So the server doesn't go looking for anything.

Don't quote me on that though, I've had a very limited play with it and only with respect to my NAS.
5358
Granted, almost none of the suggested backup and/or syncing software is able to copy to the Linux PC (which runs on OpenSuse 10.1). A fellow DC'er (Kartal, I believe) suggested pathsync  :Thmbsup: , a small (and free) syncing program that is able to copy (sorry for being too lazy to look for the DC thread).

What about rsync - free and does delta copying.

Usually a part of most Linux distros too, IIRC.
5359
Thanks, I just read it and am going to save it now. Do you recommend USB hubs with their own PSU as a cheaper alternative to new pcs though?

That would come down to whether you want the extra grunt of a new PC or just want to update your current one because it does everything you want.

A self-powered 7 port USB2 hub, (external), costs AU$15 including the PSU.
A USB2 PCI card is AU$10.

A lot cheaper than a new PC.

Edit: btw those are some advanced stuff. Do you have any recommendation for learning voltages with a degree?

With reference to Australia, (and the mid-1980s), you were able to do Certificate Of Technology (Electronics), there's also Bachelor Of Science (Electrical Engineering) as well as others probably.  They've probably undergone a name change since I went through the penal educational system though.

To be honest, I only ever did the first 6 months of C.O.T. Electronics then got a job with, (then), Telecom Australia, but I've always had electronics as a hobby since I was about 12 - so with regard to general electronics knowledge I'm basically self-taught.

If you're interested there are a few online resources to get you started, (haven't looked at any of them), like this one.

Second thoughts, forget I mentioned that one :)  I'm sure you can find plenty using Google, or just go to the local library.
5360
Oh, I didn't know that. I've replaced the two usb plug with a single usb one thinking the other one was just an extra plug. Thanks. That could be it.

Another post I made regarding the power usage of external 2.5" HDDs.

You should always use the cable they supply, always plug in the PC ends before the HDD and never plug them into an external USB hub unless you know for a fact the hub has it's own PSU.
5361
... but I've had two XPs experience this...

What exactly does this mean?

Two installs of XP on the same machine OR two different machines both running XP?

Whenever I've had this type of problem, (disconnect/reconnect), with an external USB anything it has always been the physical USB connection itself that was the cause.

eg.
1) Broken wire in the cable.
2) Contacts on the plug are recessed into it too much and don't make correct contact to ones in the socket.
3) Contacts on the plug are too short(!) and don't reach the contacts in the socket.
4) Contacts in the socket have been bent by someone pulling out the plug at an angle.
5) Contacts in the socket are too short.
6) Connection from front mounted USB ports to motherboard has come loose.
7) USB port on PC too tight and plug not fully inserted.

Honestly, USB ports give almost as much trouble as the old serial ports.

Shades, I don't think that is the cause because even though my past external HDs had this problem, this one is a Western Digital MyPassport without a power supply plug and is using a different usb cable.

If you mean it's powered by the USB port itself, (ie. it's a 2.5" drive), then are you plugging in both USB plugs at the PC end of the cable, (you need to do this so the external drive has enough power), before you connect the drive ?

Also, motherboards with VIA chipsets are well known for not being able to supply full spec power to the USB ports.  Any idea what make/model yours is ?

Dumb question, have you tried all the USB ports ?

The fact that previous and current external HDDs are having this problem points squarely at the PC as being the cause.

Have you reinstalled the system between the time when it first occurred and it's latest occurrences ?

If you have, then unless it's specifically related to a piece of software you keep installing it's more than likely a hardware problem - either the motherboard or the USB ports themselves.
5362
General Software Discussion / Re: making a recovery partition
« Last post by 4wd on November 23, 2008, 05:52 PM »
Thanks 4wd for the links.  I hadn't heard of this site but looks to be very informative.  I didn't see it posted anyware on the linked pages but how does the recovery menut get started?

The Setting up a multiboot/dualboot shows you how to install MrBooter, a small boot loader that resides in the MBR that opens a menu so you can select which OS you want to boot into.  It always gets displayed when the PC gets booted, exactly the same as the normal XP ntldr when you have more than one OS installed - in fact you could just use the normal XP ntldr.

eg. In your case you'd have an NTFS partition which contains the normal bootable XP OS plus a smaller FAT32 DOS partition that contains the partition restore program and the XP OS image.

I haven't looked at MrBooter but most boot loaders have a way to specify a default boot option with a timeout value, ie. after 5 seconds load XP.
However, within that timeout period you can select to boot into the DOS partition which you can set up with an autoexec.bat file to automatically restore the NTFS partition from the image stored on the DOS partition.

This is basically what Acronis and other similar programs do, albeit in a bit more colourful fashion.

As a simple safeguard against accidental restoration you can have your batch file ask for acknowledgment, (eg. Enter 'I want to restore' to proceed: ), before continuing or you could make it more complex.

A simple procedure:

First a few assumptions:
1) You start from scratch with a blank HDD - it is a LOT simpler;
2) The target PCs have no floppy/CD/DVD or anything other than a HDD to boot off, (you will need a floppy for installing the MS-DOS system files though - USB floppy drives are cheap);
3) You know what you're doing.  :P

a) Using a MS-DOS 98, or better, system floppy, use fdisk to create a FAT32 DOS partition of about 3GB then format it with the /s switch to copy across the system files to make it bootable, (check BootDisk for floppy images).
b) Now install your XP OS, (plus any base programs you require), into the remaining area of the HDD, (it'll need to be NTFS IIRC).  The XP install will see the DOS partition and add it to the boot.ini menu - XP will be the default with a timeout of 30 seconds - this can be changed later.
c) Create your XP OS image using the programs/instructions found at Imaging: create a Windows system image - you should end up with an image of your XP install and a boot floppy that's used to restore it, (at least I assume so, I haven't actually read/done what the page says).
d) The programs on the floppy can now be copied to your DOS FAT32 partition along with the image you created.  If the image is too big for the 3GB partition you created then you can resize the partitions to suit using GNU Parted.
e) Edit the default autoexec.bat on the DOS partition to do what you want, eg. run restore immediately, ask acknowledgment, etc.
f) Boot into XP, if you're not there already, and open My Computer->Properties->Advanced->System Startup.
   The top section describes the contents of the boot.ini file.  Set the 'Time to display list of operating systems:' to 5 seconds.
   Click the 'Edit' button, boot.ini will open in Notepad.  Under the section [operating systems] you'll see two lines similar to the following:
[operating systems]
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(0)\DOS="C:\DOS"
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS="Microsoft Windows XP Professional" /noexecute=optin /fastdetect /usepmtimer

    Change the "C:\DOS" to read "Restore OS" or something similar, then exit Notepad, saving the file.

g) All being well, you've just finished - sit back, relax, go fishing.

Upon booting the PC you should see a boot menu giving you the two choices for a period of 5 seconds before it defaults to booting XP.

NOTE: The only possible drawback to this simple method is that the XP system will reside on D:\ because MS-DOS is C:\ - most people are sheep1 when it comes to following instructions to install software and the instructions almost always say, "Install to C:\..........." - however I'm sure that suitable threats instructions can be made to make the sheep people aware of this.  >:D
          Also, it might pay to make the MS-DOS partition Read-Only from within XP - you don't want your recovery image being inadvertently written over or deleted - see Addendum.

Addendum: There's probably a way in which you can make the MS-DOS partition hidden, (by setting a bit in the partition identifier like they do in Acronis, etc), but I'm not sure if it is able to be booted into if that is done.  ie. The Partition Type for a standard FAT32 is 0x0B, for a Hidden FAT32 it is 0x1B.  It is easy enough to try though, download ptedit (ftp://ftp.symantec.com/public/english_us_canada/tools/pq/utilities/ptedit.zip), (free PowerQuest Partition Type editor), extract and run it.
  It should show two partitions, click in the Type box of the first one, (which should be 0B), click the 'Set Type' button, scroll down and select 1B, (Hidden FAT32), then OK, then 'Save Changes'.  In theory, it should no longer show up in XP - all you need to check is whether you can still boot into it via the Recovery option on the boot menu.

1) I apologise to the sheep out there.
5363
General Software Discussion / Re: making a recovery partition
« Last post by 4wd on November 22, 2008, 11:50 PM »
This site may help: Optimizing Windows

More specifically:

Setting up a multiboot/dualboot
Imaging: create a Windows system image

By installing the image recovery software on a DOS bootable FAT32 partition, (instead of a floppy/CD), along with the image you should be able to set it up so that choosing the appropriate option in the boot menu automatically restores your normally booted NTFS OS partition.

Uses all free software.
5364
Living Room / Re: Help me build my new Home Theater PC
« Last post by 4wd on November 15, 2008, 04:29 AM »
A while ago I would have thought $140 was a good price (when £1 = $2) but with the death of the pound it seems quite expensive.

It ain't nuffin' compared to how the Aussie dollar dropped from near parity, (US$0.97), to it's current US$0.65   :(
5365
Living Room / Re: Need some comparison help on laptop coolers.
« Last post by 4wd on November 14, 2008, 07:11 PM »
ThermaTake iXoft - Just found this while looking for a CPU cooler.

No fans, uses a thermal transfer medium to spread heat over a bigger area for better cooling.
5366
Living Room / Re: Help me build my new Home Theater PC
« Last post by 4wd on November 14, 2008, 06:50 PM »
Those Zalman cases look really nice ... but $261 seems a high price to pay for a box!

Still $140 less than the case Josh has in his list atm.......and consider this is going to actually be on display as a lounge room fixture, (so at least needs to be aesthetically pleasing, very quiet and possibly greater cooling requirements due to confined space installations), rather than just a fancy pc case ala Lian Li and some of the more OTT cases from ThermalTake, Coolermaster, ASUS, etc.
5367
General Software Discussion / Re: What is the currently best Desktop Search software?
« Last post by 4wd on November 09, 2008, 06:54 PM »
Btw, the other reason why I left thunderbird behind is that I've lost hundreds of e-mails because I forgot to include them in the backup before formatting the disk. F*CK... Lesson learned: Never use your hard drive as your main e-mail repository.

And the reason why I only use the portable versions of Firefox and Thunderbird - let's me format/install the system as many times as I like without losing my settings/emails because I forgot to back them up.  ;)
5368
Living Room / Re: How to figure out which is dying, my screen or my graphics card
« Last post by 4wd on November 09, 2008, 11:37 AM »
ATITool has an artifact scanning mode that'll test your GPU/VRAM, don't know how useful it is or whether it is still relevant for late model GPUs - you can but try.

Dead Pixel Buddy for checking your monitor.

It's unlikely to be the cable if the artifacts disappear when you change to 16bit display.

However, it might be that the card contacts have become slightly tarnished or just slightly unseated and removal and reinstallation might help.

If your card uses an ancillary power connection make sure it is firmly connected.
5369
Living Room / Re: Help me build my new Home Theater PC
« Last post by 4wd on November 08, 2008, 07:13 PM »
Anyways, I will look through diff speaker configs but I am having the hardest time picking out a case. Does anyone have any further recommendations?

A few questions:

1) Optimally, how many internal 3.5" bays do you require, (including any future HDD expansion) ?

2) You picked out the Silverstone CW02S-MXR which is probably one of the biggest HTPC cases dimension wise.
    Does that mean that external case dimensions are not a constraint, (ie. size doesn't matter :) ) ?

3) Is a LCD/VFD still just an option or have you decided ?

4) Do you intend to control the HTPC purely from the remote or will the addition of manual controls, (eg. volume knob/buttons, input select, etc), be of benefit ?
    eg. While I tend to use the remote for most things here, (TV, stereo, etc), I always find that sometimes it's more practical to sit right in front of the thing and use the controls on the front.

5) Colour, (black shows dust and fingerprints like you wouldn't believe - matt silver is a better choice) ?

6) Do you want an integrated card reader or provision for one, (externally accessible 3.5" bay) ?

7) a) What front accessible ports do you require, (eg. USB, FireWire, Audio out, Mic, etc), and how many ?
    b) If you want front ports, hidden behind a panel or always visible ?

Probably a few more questions that are relevant but I'll stop there :)

Also, wrt VFD/LCD it might pay to check up on what the software is like and search for any problems people have been having.

The dominant software/display combination seems to be iMON, (used by Zalman, Silverstone, Thermaltake, Antec and others), but there's also IRTrans, M-Play and probably others.

Case suggestion: Zalman HD160 Plus - plenty of drive bays, cooling layout seems to be very good, front controls/ports, front accessible 3.5" bay if you want to add a card reader later.

NCIX shows it for $261 but no stock, (maybe order in).
5370
Living Room / Re: Need some comparison help on laptop coolers.
« Last post by 4wd on November 08, 2008, 05:20 PM »
Snazy!  Wonder where and how much.  Probably lots more than the $10 for a cheapie on Ebay, but I really like the idea of a speed control.

Froogle is your friend1, (yeah, I know it's now Google Products but Froogle sounded so much better).

There's a NC1000 that starts at $36 and the NC2000 starts at $51.

1. Unless you're paranoid or have no search skills  :P
5371
General Software Discussion / Re: What's on your flash drive?
« Last post by 4wd on November 07, 2008, 07:48 PM »
Lupo Pensuite - is on one of my 2GB flash drives, uses ~300MB.

System Rescue CD - is on another bootable 2GB, also includes an (mainly) unattended XP installation, WinBuilder LiveXP, Acronis Recovery ISO, Hitachi Feature Tool ISO, various bootable floppy images (eg. Ranish Partition Manager, Darik's Boot and Nuke, DOS, etc, etc), PuppyLinux, Damn Small Linux, DOS apps, Windows Apps and a lot more.  All, (well mostly), selected by boot menu, mixture of GRUB4DOS and syslinux.

An Imation Atom 2GB stores encrypted stuff in a secure partition.

And another 2GB is just for junk  :D

What can I say.....they were cheap  :P
5372
Living Room / Re: Need some comparison help on laptop coolers.
« Last post by 4wd on November 07, 2008, 07:14 PM »
Zalman Notebook Cooler - On/Off switch, speed control, USB cord storage, etc.

Aerodynamically designed so it'll fly further when you throw it out the window.......

What's not to like  :D

You sound like my wife - I can't have a mechanical watch running ANYWHERE in our bedroom at night. Otherwise, she cannot sleep! I have to put the things to my ear to hear them...

Wives are designed like that....it's so they can pick up the slightest sound of gossip............ :P
5373
Living Room / Re: Christmas Gift Ideas Under $25... Make a List!
« Last post by 4wd on November 07, 2008, 03:05 AM »
(4) A cool hemp shopping bag from Reusablebags.com (these are seriously strong)

Only if I can smoke 'em   :Thmbsup:
5374
Living Room / Re: Help me build my new Home Theater PC
« Last post by 4wd on November 06, 2008, 04:36 PM »
This case has been out there for 2+ years or more now, and there are almost no revews on it. That tells me to be careful because the HTPC geeks have not been hitting on this product. There must be a reason. My guess is first the price, and second the aluminum construction.

According to someone who made a HTPC with it, it was new in October 2007, which makes it only a year old.

no reviews? There are a few, not many, but each of them positive. I am open to ideas for cases still and this is by no means a finalization.

The suspension dampened HDD cage should take care of the resonance from any HDD vibration.

A little on the high side for my tastes but I assume you want the six drive bays for increasing storage later?

Also, given they provision it for use with water cooling, (two grommeted holes at the back), it would look really cool with one of these or these sitting next to it :D

Thats just it, there arent any really DECENT RCA connector speakers for use with these 5.1 systems. Heck, I can't find a set that does 7.1. Is there a way to convert standard red/black style connectors to RCA?

OK, I'm confused, the normal red/black connectors are RCA......or did you mean convert the normal computer style 3.5mm stereo connectors to RCA?

If you meant the latter then adapters are available almost everywhere, eg. RadioShack
1/8" Right-Angle to Two RCA Plugs
RadioShack Gold Series Audio Y-Adapter

For computer to speakers/amp you usually need 3.5mm stereo plug, (1/8" to the non-metricised), to male red and black, (could be red/white), RCA connectors.

Plus, you can always buy the connectors and roll your own - what I usually do.

Addendum:
What would probably be better though, is choose a surround sound speaker system that can take SPDIFw input and just use a single TOSLinkw cable.
For example, the Logitech Z-5500 has both a S/PDIF optical and coaxial input so you'll only need one cable to connect to the HTPC.

I'm sure there will be comparable systems from Altec Lansing, JBL, etc.
5375
Living Room / Re: Help me build my new Home Theater PC
« Last post by 4wd on November 06, 2008, 04:54 AM »
I am presently building an HTPC myself, and my investigations have brought me to pretty much the same conclusions as 4wd on this subject.

Thanks, nice to know I'm not spouting rubbish occasionally  :D

....... Gyration remote control.

Hadn't heard of those before but they look rather good - I had thought of getting some kind of wireless 3D mouse, (sorry, can't recall what they call them).  Then again, maybe use CamSpace, a webcam and wave my arms around to move the mouse pointer and run programs - at least I'd get a workout  :P

Stay away from the Seagate 750 and 1000 gb hard drives. Failure rates have been very high on these units (read up at Newegg) and they run hot as hell - which means you'll need good cooling and fans make noise. I bought a 750GB Seagate for an external backup unit and I had to put it in an enclosure with a fan. You can burn your fingers if you touch one of those things after they've been running for awhile!

Same as I've found, (heat and noise that is), it's worth noting that on the list of recommended 3.5" HDDs at Silent PC Review, not one is a Seagate.  I think they gave up on quiet and heat in their quest for the all important transfer rate bragging rights.
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