« on: March 12, 2015, 06:37 PM »
One thing I would do once you have your setup for raising the car and pulling wheels, is check the disk brakes. What happens especially when the calipers have a lot of time since the last service(or they never were serviced) is you push the piston(s) all the way in so that you can fit the new brake pads in. This pushes the crud clinging to the piston through the seal inside the caliper. Typically that is when they hang. Usually after you drive the car for a few days one gets "frozen" so that the brake on that wheel drags. You used to be able to tell by the car pulling to that side when you jabbed the brakes. But with the computer controlled systems now you might not notice until stuff on that wheel overheats.
I got around it on an old Chevy Impala because in the shop there was a pile of Chevy disk brake pads we removed waiting to be sent for relining. I picked out those about 70% worn and slid them in without having to do the caliper rebuild. Just turning the rotors. Nice and cheap. $0 for parts. The moral of the story being never assume you can just put new pads in. You may be lucky but more often than not it doesn't last. You can end up wiping out the other brake and wheel components.-MilesAhead (March 12, 2015, 05:43 AM)
I had that happen to me on the old ('92) cop car I owned. The one brake job I did turned into a major nightmare before I even got started, when the Napa counter monkey couldn't figure out the rear disc brakes. Fortunately, I had a friend with his own shop who was trading car repairs for computer work.
I left the rear brakes for him because it was pulling badly to the right when I hit the brakes, and I didn't want to open that can of worms in my driveway. I don't remember what all had to be replaced when everything was said and done, but it was extensive. I knew enough about cars to know when I'm in over my head
I miss that car, but it needed too much work to justify keeping it.