Ah, I thought you wanted to keep away from using manual tags altogether, Lyx lets you just apply section styles as you write. I don't see where you have to manually insert commands right off.
There IS a mode you can use (that I forget at the moment), that lets you see the raw, tagged text in a split window from the formatted text.
EDIT: Ah, here it is, but you can't edit the raw document directly, you can only make changes and see the TeX code it generates.
From the top menu, click "View", then check "Source pane". While you're at it, click "Outline pane" too. Makes it easy to see an overview of the document and where you are in it.
Seriously, go through some of the tutorials and help files, they help a LOT.