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Software for planning wood bookcases/cabinets/tables etc?

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mouser:
 ;D

the other thing that's worth saying, in terms of how awkward it is to have to remove that upper cabinet above the new stove location.. is that the area above the stove's "old" location is going to be completely empty with no cabinets, and needs to remain that way for visual flow.. so it's a huge waste not to have the oven in it's original location..

cranioscopical:
the area above the stove's "old" location is going to be completely empty with no cabinets, and needs to remain that way for visual flow.. so it's a huge waste not to have the oven in it's original location..-mouser (April 06, 2010, 09:49 AM)
--- End quote ---
There are good arguments and counter-arguments( ;)) for either alternative. Given the right drill bits I still don't see that it would be a big problem to anchor to the floor.  The correct base would probably let you get away without fixing to the wall, though it shouldn't be hard to find out what's where behind the wall.

mouser:
people are going to inevitably end up leaning on it as they lean into the kitchen. anything less than it feeling rock solid stable is going to be noticeable and disconcerting, and get worse over time.

it's a cement floor underneath, with tile on one side and hardwood on the other.  i will have to use masonry nails or screws to hammer through the base of the cabinet into the floor.  if i try to put the base on top of the tile and secure tightly, i am getting i will crack the kitchen tiles its halfway on.  then i will have to screw/nail THROUGH the hardwood tiles (or remove them).. and trying to get an ultra stable attachment with the differences in heights between tile and hardwood might not work, and shims might not work for something that has to be secured so tightly to floor. i could try to remove the hardwood and tile under it but i don't know how well that would go and what kind of permanent commitment that is.

i mean this was the original plan, i'm just getting really cold feet about the things that can go wrong, and the fact that it will be almost impossible to turn back once i embark on trying to permanently attach that half wall to the floor..


another set of alternate images with oven moved, and cabinets above removed:
Software for planning wood bookcases/cabinets/tables etc?
Software for planning wood bookcases/cabinets/tables etc?

cranioscopical:
I guess it depends what's under the cement under the tiles. If it were me, and I wanted to leave the existing floor as intact as possible, I'd make a solid base whose external dimensions were the same as the internal dimensions of your cabinet. I'd secure that to the floor with sufficient, suitable screws, first having shimmed it level. That would give you a robust start. I might even mount some L-brackets on that base in order to give added rigidity to the back of the cabinet. I'd then drop the cabinet over the base and secure it, probably with horizontal screws. Now your cabinet is attached to a virtually immovable platform, and possibly even reinforced with L-brackets. You'd cover the horizontal screws with the kick-plate trim on the base of the cabinet. It's not that big a job to drill clearance holes through the tile and/or hardwood and then insert suitable screw anchors into the cement (if that's sufficiently thick/durable). An additional benefit is that using a solid base should spread the force of the screws and prevent tiles from cracking. Your local hardware store will advise you about the right fixings.

That said, you just can't beat a one-piece top (as in your latest image Cabinets removed) as a way to give the cabinet maximum rigidity.

Looks as if you'll have to give up something and moving the stove puts it into a much better position.  So, losing the cabinet puts the stove in a better place and removes your anxieties about stability and inadvertent demolition ;D

Of course, you could leave things as they are. Just because you've had an idea, that doesn't make it the best course to adopt, upon mature reflection.

Or, have you considered moving? ;D ;D

mouser:
thanks for all of the thoughts chris :)

the point about having a very secure base would be my plan, similar to yours.. however i think it may not be as straightforward to secure the base to the floor as you say.. using shims is of course the normal thing, but for a base that has to be rock solid attached to the floor, i just dont know how problematic that would -- i have plastic shim material that wont change size much but still.. and having the base on top of the tile and then trying to really put that base in tight.. i think the chance of cracking those tiles that the base is half-way on is high (and they are big 12"x12" tiles).  i could however cheat a little and make the island BASE a little narrower and avoid resting it on any tiles.

it definitely IS possible to do, and has been my plan until i started thinking about how much nicer it would be if i didn't have to muck with anchoring to the floor.

now i'm unsure.

and yes, i'm very much considering whether this is worth it.. modeling it almost satisfies me enough to not have to do it in real life.

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