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HDMI signal drops and reconnects (Mac) - DC plz help!!1

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nosh:
Sure thing.

Shades:
My switch device comment was made in the hope that you didn't have to spent time and/or money on (a) converter(s).

There are 6 versions of the HDMI protocol and, generally speaking, it isn't hard for me to imagine that if you connect a device that sends out data using HDMI 2.0 to a device that only supports HDMI 1.1, there might be some unexpected idiosyncratic behavior on either the HDMI 2.0 device or the HDMI 1.1 device. Although backwards compatibility is implied, that does not make this necessarily true for every use case in combination with different hardware from different brands.

The answer from the other forum makes actually a lot of sense. In the days of PS/2 keyboards and mouses, you needed a special kind of KVM switch that maintained those connections, even if you selected another computer. Reconnecting to a PS/2 port after the computer was turned on and expecting everything to work was not a given and could even cause the reconnected computer to freeze.

Why the history lesson? Simply to indicate that these kind of problems are not unheard of and are actually of all era's. While the area's of application vary significantly, the (idea behind the) solution is practically the same.

4wd:
I have the same problem with a tablet when connecting to TVs via mini-HDMI -> HDMI, the TV blanks every 10-15 seconds as it tries to resync with the tablet.

Nothing can be done about it other than find a TV it doesn't happen with - as Shades mentioned, unintended consequences arise from using differing versions of the standards.

nosh:
Update:

The pigtail switch did not work

I then got this powered switch, which does work:
"Kinivo 301BN Premium 3 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter"
HDMI signal drops and reconnects (Mac) - DC plz help!!1

It didn't work right away, the signal didn't pass through the old HDMI cable. I had to upgrade my HDMI cable to:
"BlueRigger High Speed HDMI Cable with Ethernet - CL3 Rated for In-wall Installation - Supports 3D and Audio Return",


It's not necessary to manually switch to a null output (the device doesn't even allow it) or to power off the device when I'm using the TV for something other than mirroring the computer, the switch took care of the handshake problem and works flawlessly, no drop in video quality either. 

Thanks again to everyone who chimed in.

Edit: It just occurred to me that I hadn't tried using just the upgraded cable, without the switch. It f***** works! There's no need for the switch at all, upgrading the cable was all that was required. lol

mouser:
thank you for the report! useful information for the rest of us. let us know if it holds up.

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