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Show us a photo of your mutt or other creatures..
holt:
My deepest sympathies to you for Tinkerbell, CleverCat. I grew up with cats and dogs, but spent my adult life with cats. If you ever want to try for another kitty, when you put her outside for the first couple weeks -or months-, every time she goes out, put her in an all-wire (maximum x-y-z visibility) cage big enough to take a step inside of; she'll be all ears, eyes, and nose in every direction, but be restricted so she can learn the dangers through her senses before being exposed to or entering into their domain and danger zone, and also orient herself to her own territory. I've done this, so I put great faith in this method. For the road out front, sit beside the cage with a slap stick of two flat thin boards to make an artificial 'bang' when vehicles go past, to startle her and build a healthy mental association-aversion reflex. Again my deepest and most sincere sympathy and condolences. PS - I posted this under the assumption you have a solid 2-meter high fenced back and side yard, and that the neighbor's dogs don't ever run loose; otherwise, all bets are off. BTW, I once had a pint-size kitten leap almost straight up and attain the top of a 2-meter wooden board fence and hook her little paws over the top; hence, the cage training regimen approach, which worked quite well in teaching her to beware of unfamiliar dangers, and not to wander. Another 'feline survival tactic' is to set up many escape routes and narrow access barricades on your property which only a cat should be able to take advantage of; trees, porch crawl spaces, escape holes, and so on.
CleverCat:
Sorry for delay in replying but was busy adopting a rescue cat! She was rescued and given to my neighbour's niece who had to re home her after 3 months as her Himalayan was fighting her. Previous owner shaved her and did a hack job....
Meet Isabella Maria Garcinez - a Pedigree Silver Back Chinchilla who doesn't climb trees but offending tree will be drastically trimmed!
CleverCat:
[quote PS - I posted this under the assumption you have a solid 2-meter high fenced back and side yard, and that the neighbor's dogs don't ever run loose;][/quote]
holt you are correct - 6 foot concrete wall and a 30 meter driveway to road with 10 foot front gates (This is crime ridden South Africa!) She bolts indoors at any noise...
CC
holt:
[quote PS - I posted this under the assumption you have a solid 2-meter high fenced back and side yard, and that the neighbor's dogs don't ever run loose;]-CleverCat (April 06, 2016, 02:21 AM)
--- End quote ---
Meet Isabella Maria Garcinez - a Pedigree Silver Back Chinchilla...
holt you are correct - 6 foot concrete wall and a 30 meter driveway to road with 10 foot front gates (This is crime ridden South Africa!) She bolts indoors at any noise...
CC
[/quote]CleverCat, that is an awesome pussycat! :-* Loved her at first sight! The all-wire cage I used as a 'kitten playpen' to yard train our cat was actually an old chinchilla cage. Big and roomy even for a full size cat, and even more so for a junior.
I just wanted to add another tried and proven method for even the worst dog problem; toss the dog/s treats (from a safe distance) daily, or whenever you see them. Get the owner's permission if you can, or sneak-toss the treats if you must. It is virtually impossible for a dog to eat and bark or bite at the same time. At first, the dog will be suspicious and grudge you an angry bark, but over time, a few days or weeks, he'll change his attitude, and can become much more friendly. The only dogs this may fail with are those little high-strung yappers, or specially trained guard dogs. It may not stop him chasing cats, but his basic disposition will be enormously improved, which is definitely a step in the right direction. I've done this many times.
CleverCat:
My friends say she is Royalty!
We don't even see those dogs behind the wall and they live with a cat so the owner was perplexed they would attack...
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