I did manage to install the Microsoft Visual Web Developer after a bit of effort (you have to download the Microsoft Web Platform Installer first, then go to the Microsoft Visual Web Developer page http://www.microsoft.com/express/web/
and click on the Install button and enter the path to the Microsoft Web Platform Installer on your PC to install it. And installation is quite sloooooow.
The Express version (supposed to be free) is clearly labeled "For Evaluation Purposes only" -- not my favorite ambiguity...
and then after loading an HTML file, I get the message: some bytes have been replaced with the Unicode substitution character while loading filename with US-ASCII encoding. Saving the file will not preserve the original file contents.
Not sure if this will mess up my HTML files or not.
on the positive side, it has dual panes, code and preview, with auto-updating and a vertical split option with the code on the left, which I prefer
but on the negative side, it doesn't have any way to automatically insert HTML codes, e.g. I cannot select a few words and change their color, size, etc.
so it's ok but certainly not great.
by the way, CodeLobster PHP Edition has all of the above except that the preview is on the left, but again has no support for inserting HTML tags easily.