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Software for planning wood bookcases/cabinets/tables etc?
Target:
I still think making a new face for the drawer is the easiest and least risky option. Once you start taking material away you can't put it back again if it's still not right (and then you've got 2 problems ;D)
mouser:
I'm inclined to agree.
I may try tweaking the gaps first (since the drawer rails have an adjustment for this) to see how much i can fix invisibly, and then cutting new face frame to cover up any remaining gap that i don't feel comfortable fixing with rail adjustments.
Target:
watch out if you're going to tweak the slides, if you introduce a height difference across the drawer they may be inclined to jam (depends on how much clearance you have on each side of course).
claim it as a character piece, and see how many people actually notice (I'm guessing not many). If someone does it becomes a conversation piece (everyone wins!!!)
ayryq:
OK, had a chance to look at your pictures now - That's a wide opening; 1/8" isn't very much across that distance. If it were mine I'd try remaking the drawer front with the angle at the top--since you wanted to redo the drawer fronts anyhow. You could try it with a scrap first and see if someone else can tell.
Other ideas:
* Use a router with a flush-trim bit to completely remove the overhang on that shelf (so the bottom of the face frame is flush with the fixed shelf behind). Problems: Width won't match rest of face frame, you'll have to remake the drawer front to make it taller, the corners will have to be hand-trimmed.
* Mark the level line with a pencil and cut off the excess freehand with a full-size circular saw. It's actually pretty easy (perhaps with practice) to cut to a line with a skilsaw, but you run into problems where the cut is less than the width of the blade (which would be most of the cut, in your case).
* Glue a second, wedge-shaped face-frame piece to the underside of the current one. This would be really hard to make without a tablesaw. Or glue a larger piece there, then trim it.
* Find a use for the excess gap: Put a IR receiver or a pinhole camera or a tiny Cody or a Knight-rider LED array in the space. Tell people you planned it.
* Buy a bullnose plane and trim it that way instead of using sandpaper. Draw a line first.
* Get that board off - saw the joints at right and left, being careful not to damage adjacent face-frame boards. Use a chisel behind it, and cover any damage with the new face-frame board.
* Redesign that area - put a protruding bullnose molding on it or something. Or a little shelf for remotes.
The most important, and hardest, part is not pointing out the flaws to people who see what you've made. It's almost impossible to resist, but no one notices if you don't.
mouser:
On another matter.. anyone here ever tried wood "dyes" as opposed to normal stains? holy cow i am a convert!
I've been testing tons of gel and standard stains trying to get the right look on this birch+maple, and the blotching was noticable. Tried a wood dye and wow! the clarity and evenness is remarkable. :up:
[EDIT] I've since tried a number of different dye stain colors and they don't ALL look as great as the first one i tried in terms of anti-blotching -- though they all do look great and i love the easy ability to mix your own custom colors.
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